What Is Charmeuse Fabric? Charmeuse vs Satin, Momme Weights and How to Sew It

What is charmeuse?

Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven in a satin weave. In a satin weave, yarns float over several crossing yarns before tucking under, which leaves a smooth, glossy face. Charmeuse adds very fine, often highly twisted yarns that give the back a dull, slightly crepe-like texture. The result is a fabric that is shiny on one side, matte on the other, and so fluid that it seems to pour over the body.

The name comes from the French word for “charmer”. It was popular in early 20th-century couture and became the signature fabric of the bias-cut evening gowns of the 1930s.

Charmeuse vs satin

People often use the words as if they mean the same thing. Satin is the weave; charmeuse is one specific fabric made with it, at the light and fluid end of the satin family. Heavier satins such as duchess satin are stiff enough to hold the shape of a bridal skirt, while charmeuse would collapse.

Silk charmeuse vs polyester charmeuse

Silk charmeuse is breathable, regulates temperature well, feels cool and smooth on the skin, and has a soft, deep lustre. It is also expensive, needs gentle care and can water-spot. Polyester charmeuse imitates the look for a fraction of the price, resists wrinkles, holds bright colour and can usually go in the washing machine, but it does not breathe as well and can feel warm or clammy. For special-occasion wear that touches the skin, silk is worth the cost; for linings, costumes and practice garments, polyester is sensible.

What does momme mean?

Silk fabric weight is measured in momme (mm), a Japanese unit. One momme equals about 4.34 grams per square metre, so a 19 momme charmeuse weighs about 83 grams per square metre. Higher momme means more silk per square metre, which gives better opacity, durability and a heavier drape.

What is charmeuse used for?

• Evening wear: bias-cut slip dresses and gowns that skim the body.
• Blouses and camisoles: soft, drapey tops with a subtle shine.
• Lingerie and nightwear: slips, chemises, robes and pyjamas.
• Linings: luxury linings for jackets and coats.
• Scarves and accessories: printed silk scarves and pocket squares.
• Bedding: silk pillowcases and sheets, usually 19 momme and up.

How to tell silk charmeuse from polyester

• Touch: silk warms to your hand quickly and feels softly smooth; polyester often stays cool and slick.
• Sheen: silk has a soft, pearly glow; polyester can look brighter and more uniform.
• Burn test on a loose thread: silk burns slowly, smells like burning hair and leaves a soft ash that crumbles; polyester melts into a hard bead with dark smoke.
• Price: genuine silk charmeuse costs several times more than polyester.

Choosing a silk pillowcase

Charmeuse is the usual weave for silk pillowcases because the smooth face reduces friction. Look for 100 percent mulberry silk in about 19 to 25 momme, a hidden zip or envelope closure, and an independent textile safety certification. Very low-momme pillowcases feel thin and wear out quickly; very high momme feels heavier and costs more. Wash them gently and keep them away from rough cotton loads.

Dyeing charmeuse

Silk charmeuse takes acid dyes beautifully, giving deep, glowing colour; it can also be dyed with fibre-reactive dyes using low-temperature methods. Polyester charmeuse needs disperse dyes at high temperature, so home dyeing with ordinary cotton or all-purpose dyes gives weak results.

How to sew charmeuse

1. Pre-treat: wash silk charmeuse the way you plan to clean the finished item, or keep it for dry cleaning.
2. Stabilise: lay the fabric on tissue paper or spray it with a washable fabric stabiliser so it stops sliding while you cut.
3. Cut single layer: use a rotary cutter and fine weights instead of pins; pin only inside seam allowances with fine silk pins.
4. Use a fine sharp needle: a 60/8 or 70/10 microtex. Our guides to the sewing machine needle for silk and the needle for satin fabric explain the options.
5. Short stitches and light pressure: about 2 mm stitch length with fine polyester or silk thread, and lower presser foot pressure if your machine allows.
6. Finish seams cleanly: French seams or narrow rolled hems; overlocked edges can show through.
7. Let bias hang: hang bias-cut pieces for a day before hemming so the hem drops evenly.
8. Press gently: low heat, from the wrong side, with a press cloth and no steam spurts on silk.

How to care for charmeuse

• Silk: hand wash in cool water with a pH-neutral silk detergent, or dry clean. Swish, do not rub or wring.
• Roll in a towel to remove water, then dry flat or hang away from sun and heat.
• Polyester: machine wash cool on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag and line dry.
• Iron on low heat on the reverse side with a press cloth.
• Store hanging on padded hangers or folded with tissue, away from rough fabrics.

If you are dyeing silk charmeuse at home, our guide to the best dye for silk fabric covers suitable dye types. For other fabric comparisons, see our fabric types and specifications guide.

Frequently asked questions