What Is Jute Fabric? The Golden Fibre, Jute vs Burlap and Its Uses
Jute is the golden fibre of Bangladesh and India. Learn how jute fabric is made, how it differs from burlap and hemp, where it is used and how to care for jute rugs and bags.
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Quick answer
Jute fabric is a coarse, strong, golden-brown cloth woven from the bast fibres of Corchorus plants, grown mainly in Bangladesh and India. Stalks are soaked in water to loosen the fibre, which is then stripped, dried, spun and woven into hessian (burlap), sacking or decorative fabrics. Jute is cheap, strong and biodegradable, but rough, stiff and easily marked by water.
Key takeaways
- Jute is a natural bast fibre from the stems of Corchorus olitorius (tossa) and Corchorus capsularis (white jute).
- Bangladesh and India grow almost all of the world's jute; Bangladesh is the largest exporter of raw jute.
- Burlap (called hessian outside North America) is simply a plain-woven jute fabric.
- Jute is strong and biodegradable but coarse and low in stretch, and it stains and yellows with water and sunlight.
Contents12 sections
What is jute?
Jute is a long, soft-sheened natural fibre taken from the stems of two plants: Corchorus olitorius, known as tossa jute, and Corchorus capsularis, known as white jute. Like linen and hemp, it is a bast fibre, meaning it comes from the outer layer of the stalk. After cotton, jute is one of the most produced plant fibres in the world.
Jute thrives in the warm, wet, flood-plain soils of the Ganges and Brahmaputra deltas. Bangladesh and India grow almost all of the world’s supply; India is the largest producer and Bangladesh the largest exporter of raw jute. It is called the golden fibre for its colour and for its long importance to the region’s economy.
Jute at a glance
- Fibre type
- Natural bast fibre (cellulose with lignin)
- Main origin
- Bangladesh and India
- Colour
- Golden to light brown, white jute is paler
- Feel
- Coarse, stiff, slightly lustrous
- Key fabrics
- Hessian (burlap), sacking, carpet backing, jute twill
- Strengths
- Strong, cheap, breathable, biodegradable
How jute fabric is made
Most of the early work happens in villages and along rivers, where farmers cut, bundle and ret the stalks before selling the fibre to mills.
- GrowingSown in spring and harvested after about four months, when the plants are around 2 to 4 metres tall.
- RettingBundles soak in ponds or slow water for roughly 2 to 3 weeks until microbes loosen the fibre.
- StrippingFibre is peeled from the stalk by hand, washed and sun-dried.
- Batching and cardingFibre is softened with an oil-water emulsion, then opened and combed.
- SpinningDrawn slivers are spun into yarn, from coarse sacking yarn to finer yarn for decor.
- Weaving and finishingPlain-woven into hessian or sacking; may be bleached, dyed or laminated.
The quality of retting decides the colour, softness and strength of the fibre.
Retting is the key step. Too short and the fibre stays stuck to the stalk; too long and it weakens and darkens. Clean, slow-flowing water gives the brightest fibre. At the mill, jute is graded, softened with an oil-and-water emulsion so it can be carded without breaking, and then spun on heavy machines into yarns for sacking, hessian, twine and carpet backing.
Types of jute fabric
- Hessian (burlap): an open plain weave used for bags, sacks, crafts, upholstery underlay and garden use.
- Sacking: heavier, coarser cloth for grain, sugar, coffee and cocoa bags.
- Carpet backing cloth: a tight woven jute used behind tufted carpets.
- Jute twill and herringbone: denser, smoother cloths for shopping bags and furnishing.
- Jute blends: jute-cotton and jute-viscose for softer decor fabrics and bags.
- Geotextiles: jute mesh and non-wovens that control soil erosion and then biodegrade.
Jute vs burlap vs hessian
These words often cause confusion. Jute is the fibre. Hessian is the plain-woven fabric made from jute; burlap is the North American name for the same cloth. Some craft burlap is made from hemp, sisal or even synthetic fibres, so read the label if natural fibre matters to you.
Jute vs hemp
- Plant
- Jute: Corchorus species
- Hemp: Industrial Cannabis sativa
- Main growers
- Jute: Bangladesh and India
- Hemp: China, Europe, North America
- Feel
- Jute: Coarse, harsh, golden lustre
- Hemp: Coarse at first, softens with washing
- Strength
- Jute: Strong but low stretch
- Hemp: Very strong, more durable
- Price
- Jute: Very low cost
- Hemp: Higher cost
- Main uses
- Jute: Sacks, rugs, bags, carpet backing, decor
- Hemp: Apparel, canvas, rope, blends
- Weak spots
- Jute: Yellows in sun, water stains, sheds fibre
- Hemp: Wrinkles, stiff when new
Both are bast fibres from plant stems; they behave quite differently in products.
Strengths
- Strong and tear resistant for bags and sacks
- Low cost and widely available
- Breathable, so stored grain and produce do not sweat
- Fully biodegradable and compostable when undyed
Drawbacks
- Rough and scratchy, not suited to most clothing
- Very low stretch and wrinkle recovery
- Yellows and weakens in strong sunlight
- Marks with water, sheds fibre and can mildew if damp
What is jute used for?
- Packaging: sacks for rice, coffee, cocoa, potatoes and sugar.
- Bags: shopping and promotional bags as an alternative to plastic.
- Home decor: rugs, table runners, wall coverings, lamp shades and baskets.
- Construction and farming: geotextiles for slopes, riverbanks and roadsides; plant pot liners.
- Furniture and footwear: upholstery webbing and espadrille soles.
- Crafts: burlap ribbons, wreaths and wedding decor.
Tossa jute vs white jute
Tossa jute (Corchorus olitorius) gives a softer, stronger, more lustrous golden fibre and makes up most of the crop. White jute (Corchorus capsularis) is paler and slightly coarser and tolerates waterlogged land better. Mills grade fibre by colour, strength, cleanliness and root content, and blend grades for different products: the best for fine yarns and decor fabric, lower grades for sacking and carpet backing.
Jute in Bangladesh
Jute has been central to Bangladesh’s economy for generations, earning it the name golden fibre. Millions of farming families grow it, and spinning and weaving mills turn it into yarn, twine, sacking and diversified products such as bags, rugs and home textiles. To support the fibre, Bangladesh introduced mandatory jute packaging rules requiring jute bags for a range of commodities. Interest in plastic-free packaging has also brought new demand for jute shopping bags and decor products worldwide.
Dyeing and finishing jute
Jute contains lignin as well as cellulose, which affects how it takes colour. It can be bleached for lighter shades, and it dyes with basic, acid, direct and reactive dyes, though bright, light colours tend to yellow over time in sunlight. Many jute decor products are left natural or dyed in earthy shades, and some are laminated or coated to make them water resistant.
Is jute sustainable?
Jute grows fast, usually on rain and river water with modest fertiliser, and it improves soil with its leaf litter and roots. The fibre and fabric are biodegradable, and jute bags and geotextiles replace plastic in many uses. Its weak points are water pollution from retting when it is not managed, the use of mineral batching oils in some mills, and plastic laminates added to many “jute” shopping bags, which make them hard to compost. Plain, undyed jute with vegetable-oil batching is the most natural choice.
How to care for jute rugs, bags and decor
- Vacuum jute rugs regularly without a beater bar to remove grit that cuts fibres.
- Blot spills immediately with a dry cloth; do not rub or soak.
- Spot clean with very little water and mild soap, then dry fast with a fan.
- Keep jute out of strong direct sunlight to slow yellowing and brittleness.
- Store jute dry and well ventilated to prevent mildew and smell.
- Rotate rugs so wear and fading are even.
Compare jute with cotton, linen and synthetic fabrics in our fabric types and specifications guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is jute the same as burlap?
Burlap is a plain-woven fabric usually made from jute. In the UK, Bangladesh and India the same cloth is called hessian. So most burlap is jute, but jute is also made into sacking, carpet backing, rugs and finer decorative fabrics.
Why is jute called the golden fibre?
Because of its natural golden-brown sheen and its huge economic importance in Bangladesh and India, where millions of farmers and mill workers depend on it.
Is jute fabric soft?
No. Standard jute is coarse and scratchy, which is why it is mostly used for bags, rugs and decor. Softened jute and jute-cotton blends feel better but are still rougher than cotton.
Is jute eco-friendly?
Jute grows quickly with relatively few inputs, is fully biodegradable and makes a good replacement for plastic sacks and bags. Retting can pollute water if not managed, and dyes or plastic laminates on jute bags reduce its green credentials.
Can jute get wet?
Jute can be washed carefully, but water can leave brown marks, shrink the fabric and encourage mildew if it dries slowly. Jute rugs are best vacuumed and spot cleaned, not soaked.
Why does jute smell?
Many jute products are softened with a batching oil during spinning, which can leave a strong odour. Food-grade jute uses vegetable-based oils instead. Airing new jute outdoors usually reduces the smell.
