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Practical Textile
Knitting & Fabric

What Is Faux Leather? PU vs PVC, How It Is Made and How Long It Lasts

Faux leather is a plastic-coated fabric made to look like leather. Here is how PU and PVC versions differ, how long they last and how to care for and sew them.

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What is faux leather made of?

Faux leather is a man-made material designed to look and feel like animal leather. It has two layers: a fabric backing, usually a polyester knit or woven, and a polymer coating, usually polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). While the coating is still soft it is pressed with an embossing roller or release paper that copies the pores and grain of real leather, then coloured and given a top finish.

You will see many names for the same idea: artificial leather, synthetic leather, leatherette, pleather, vegan leather and, for PVC versions, vinyl.

Faux leather at a glance

Structure
Fabric backing plus PU or PVC coating
Backing
Polyester or cotton knit, woven or non-woven
Surface
Embossed grain, matte to high gloss
Breathability
Low (PU) to none (PVC)
Care
Wipe clean; avoid heat, sun and solvents
Lifespan
Usually shorter than real leather

How is faux leather made?

Most PU faux leather is made by transfer coating. A liquid PU layer is spread onto a textured release paper, an adhesive layer goes on top, and the backing fabric is laminated onto it. After curing, the paper is peeled off, leaving the grain pattern on the PU surface. PVC is usually made by spreading a PVC paste (PVC resin plus plasticisers, stabilisers and pigment) onto the fabric, then heating it so the paste fuses. Some products add a foamed middle layer to make the material feel fuller.

The backing matters as much as the coating. A knit backing gives stretch and drape for clothing; a woven or non-woven backing gives stability for bags, shoes and upholstery.

PU vs PVC: the two main types

If a product label just says faux leather, the feel usually tells you: PU is soft and warm in the hand and wrinkles like leather; PVC is firmer, smoother and springs back. For clothing and fashion bags, PU is the common choice. For car seats, restaurant booths, boat seating and hospital furniture, PVC is preferred because it handles cleaning and spills better.

What about bonded leather?

Bonded leather is not faux leather and not full leather either. It is made from leather scraps and fibres glued onto a backing and then coated with PU. It does contain some real leather fibre, often only a small share, but the surface you touch is plastic, and it is well known for peeling on sofas and office chairs.

Plant-based “vegan leathers”

Newer materials use cactus, pineapple leaf fibre, apple waste, grape waste or mushroom mycelium. Many of these are blended with or coated in PU to make them durable, so read the composition rather than assuming they are plastic-free.

Faux leather vs real leather

  • Breathability: real leather absorbs and releases moisture; faux leather traps heat and sweat.
  • Ageing: real leather develops a patina; faux leather tends to crack or peel when it wears out.
  • Edges: real leather edges are dense fibre; faux leather edges show the fabric backing.
  • Smell and warmth: real leather smells rich and warms to your touch; faux leather often smells faintly of plastic.
  • Price and consistency: faux leather is cheaper, lighter and uniform from roll to roll, with no scars or thin spots.
  • Animal welfare: faux leather uses no animal hide.

Strengths

  • Affordable and consistent in colour and thickness
  • Water resistant and easy to wipe clean
  • No animal hide
  • Available in any colour, finish or print

Drawbacks

  • Does not breathe; can feel hot and sticky
  • PU coatings crack and peel with age, heat and humidity
  • Fossil-based and hard to recycle
  • Needle holes and tears cannot be repaired invisibly

Types of faux leather by quality

  • PVC vinyl: tough, wipeable, stiffer; the standard for car, marine and healthcare seating.
  • Standard PU on knit backing: soft and drapey for jackets, skirts and trousers.
  • PU on non-woven or microfibre backing: often sold as microfibre leather; denser, more leather-like and longer lasting, used for shoes, bags and furniture.
  • Water-based or solvent-free PU: made with fewer harmful solvents during production.
  • Bio-based or partly plant-based: contains plant materials, usually still bound with PU.

How to choose better faux leather

  • Feel the thickness: very thin coatings crack and peel sooner.
  • Check the back: a dense, even backing (often microfibre) wears better than a thin, loose knit.
  • Look at the edges and stitch lines: clean, well-finished edges and longer stitch lengths reduce tearing.
  • For sofas and chairs: check the supplier’s abrasion rating and choose a grade rated for heavy domestic or contract use.
  • For clothing: choose a knit backing and soft PU so the garment moves with you.

Common problems and fixes

How to clean and care for faux leather

  • Dust or wipe with a soft damp cloth; for marks, use a few drops of mild washing-up liquid in water.
  • Dry immediately with a clean towel; do not let water soak the seams.
  • Avoid alcohol, acetone, bleach and solvent-based cleaners; they strip the finish.
  • Keep it away from radiators, hairdryers, hot car interiors and long direct sun.
  • Hang jackets on wide, padded hangers and stuff bags so they do not crease sharply.
  • Want to customise it? Read our guide on whether fabric paint works on faux leather before you start.

Tips for sewing faux leather

  1. Use a microtex or sharp needle in size 90/14 or 100/16. True leather needles have a cutting point that can weaken the backing.
  2. Fit a walking foot, roller foot or non-stick (PTFE) foot so the coated face does not stick.
  3. Hold layers with clips, not pins, because every hole is permanent.
  4. Lengthen the stitch to about 3 to 3.5 mm; short stitches perforate the material like a tear line.
  5. Finger-press seams or use a cool iron through a press cloth on the backing side only.
  6. Topstitch seams flat or glue them down with a fabric-safe adhesive.

For a wider view of material options, see our fabric types and specifications guide.

Is faux leather eco-friendly?

It avoids animal hides and the chemicals of leather tanning, but most faux leather is made from fossil-based plastics, PVC versions use plasticisers and chlorine chemistry, and the layered structure is difficult to recycle. Shorter lifespans also mean more replacement. The lower-impact choices are water-based PU coatings, recycled polyester backings, certified bio-based content, and above all products made well enough to last.

Frequently asked questions