Types of Lace: 14 Laces by Name, How They Are Made and What to Use Them For

What is lace?

Lace is an openwork fabric in which the spaces are as much a part of the design as the threads. Unlike printed or woven patterns, lace builds its motifs by looping, twisting, knotting or stitching threads around holes. It can be made from cotton, linen, silk, nylon, polyester or viscose, by hand or by machine.

The simplest way to understand the many names is to group lace by how it is made, then learn the famous named laces in each group.

14 types of lace you should know

1. Chantilly lace

A delicate lace with a fine hexagonal net background and floral motifs outlined with a heavier thread. Originally a handmade bobbin lace from France, famous in black silk. Today most Chantilly is made on Leavers machines and is a bridal favourite for veils, sleeves and overlays.

2. Alencon lace

Often called the queen of lace. Traditional Alencon is a needle lace from Normandy. Modern machine Alencon has net-based motifs outlined with a raised cord (re-embroidered), giving crisp, defined edges that work well for bridal bodices and appliques.

3. Guipure lace

Guipure has no net background. Motifs are linked by bars or touch each other directly, making a heavier, more three-dimensional lace. Modern guipure is usually embroidered onto a base that is dissolved afterwards, which is why it is sometimes called chemical lace.

4. Venise (Venetian) lace

A heavy, sculptural needle lace style with raised motifs joined by bars. Machine Venise lace is common in collars, appliques and trims.

5. Valenciennes lace

A flat, fine bobbin lace with a diamond or round mesh, traditionally used for trims on lingerie, christening gowns and heirloom sewing. Often called Val lace.

6. Torchon lace

A simple, geometric bobbin lace made with sturdy threads, often used for edgings on household linens.

7. Cluny lace

A heavier bobbin lace in cotton or linen with geometric patterns and wheel motifs, used for table linens and rustic trims.

8. Battenberg lace

A tape lace: woven tape is shaped into motifs and joined with decorative needle-made bars. Popular for tablecloths, doilies and collars.

9. Leavers lace

A high-quality machine lace made on Leavers machines, first developed in Nottingham in the early 1800s. Leavers lace reproduces handmade looks such as Chantilly with great fineness and is still produced in France and a few other places.

10. Raschel lace

A warp-knitted machine lace that is fast and cheap to make. It is soft, often stretchy, and used in most bras, briefs, trims and affordable dresses.

11. Eyelet (broderie anglaise)

Cotton fabric embroidered with small cut-out holes edged in satin stitch. It is classic for summer blouses, children’s wear and petticoats.

12. Point d’esprit

A fine tulle net scattered with small dots, used for veils, overlays and romantic blouses.

13. Crochet lace

Made with a hook; Irish crochet uses raised motifs on a mesh. Machine-made crochet-look lace is common in boho fashion.

14. Embroidered tulle and corded lace

Designs stitched onto tulle, sometimes with cord or beads added. Embroidery machines can create similar effects at home; see our collection of machine embroidery lace designs.

Chantilly vs guipure: which look do you want?

Lace shapes: allover, edging, galloon and insertion

• Allover lace: wide yardage with a repeating pattern, used like fabric.
• Edging: narrow lace with one straight and one scalloped edge.
• Galloon: scalloped on both edges, used for hems, necklines or as a band.
• Insertion: straight on both edges, stitched between two pieces of fabric.
• Appliques and motifs: individual flowers or shapes cut out and stitched on.

How to tell handmade from machine lace

• Handmade lace shows small irregularities; machine lace repeats perfectly.
• Handmade lace rarely has selvedges in long yardage; machine lace comes off the roll with straight edges or regular scallops.
• Look for cut threads at the back: embroidered machine lace often has trimmed connecting threads.
• Price and length are strong clues; long, cheap yardage is machine-made.

Tips for sewing with lace

• Lay lace on a contrasting fabric to see motifs, and place the best motifs at centre front and hems.
• Use the scalloped edge as a finished hem so you do not need to hem lace.
• Cut around motifs instead of in straight lines, and join allover lace with a lapped seam.
• Use a 60/8 to 70/10 needle, tissue paper under fine lace, and a narrow zigzag stitch.
• Underlay sheer lace with tulle, organza or a skin-tone lining for coverage.

What is lace made from?

• Cotton lace: matte and soft, used for heirloom trims, eyelet and casual dresses.
• Nylon lace: the most common lingerie lace, soft and often stretchy with elastane.
• Polyester lace: affordable and durable for dresses, bridal and decor.
• Silk and viscose lace: luxurious drape and sheen for high-end bridal and evening wear.
• Linen lace: traditional for bobbin lace and table linens.

Can you dye lace?

It depends on the fibre. Nylon lace dyes very easily with acid dyes, which is why lingerie lace is so easy to colour-match. Cotton and linen lace take fibre-reactive dyes. Polyester lace needs disperse dyes at high temperature and resists most home dyes. Many laces combine fibres, for example a nylon net with polyester or cotton embroidery thread, so the motif and the net may end up different shades. Always test a small cutting first.

How to care for lace

• Hand wash delicate lace in cool water with mild detergent, or use a mesh bag on a gentle cycle.
• Do not wring; roll in a towel and dry flat, pinning scallops into shape if needed.
• Press from the wrong side on a padded surface with a press cloth.
• Store antique or bridal lace wrapped in acid-free tissue, away from light.

For a wider look at fibres and constructions, see our fabric types and specifications guide.

Frequently asked questions