What Is Taffeta? Silk vs Polyester Taffeta, Types and How to Sew It
Taffeta is the crisp, rustling fabric of ball gowns, petticoats and jacket linings. Learn what it is made of, the main types, how it compares with satin, and how to sew and care for it.
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What is taffeta?
Taffeta is a crisp, smooth fabric woven in a tight plain weave, usually from fine filament yarns. Its firm hand lets it hold shape and volume, and it makes a soft rustling sound, sometimes called scroop, as it moves. The surface has a gentle sheen rather than the high gloss of satin. The name is generally traced to the Persian word taftah, meaning twisted or woven.
For centuries taffeta meant silk taffeta, worn by royalty and used for formal gowns. Today most taffeta is synthetic: polyester for dresses and decor, nylon for lightweight jacket shells and linings, and acetate for linings and occasion wear.
Taffeta at a glance
- Weave
- Tight plain weave, often with a fine crosswise rib
- Fibres
- Silk, polyester, nylon, acetate, viscose
- Hand
- Crisp, smooth, holds volume
- Sheen
- Soft to medium lustre
- Uses
- Ball and bridal gowns, petticoats, linings, jacket shells, curtains
- Watch for
- Fraying, needle holes, permanent creases, water spots on silk
How taffeta is made
Taffeta is woven from smooth, fine filament yarns packed tightly together. Often the weft is slightly heavier than the warp, which creates a very fine horizontal rib you can see if you look closely. The yarns may be dyed before weaving (yarn-dyed) or the fabric dyed after weaving (piece-dyed). Yarn-dyed silk taffeta has the crispest feel and the classic rustle; piece-dyed taffeta is softer. Finishes such as calendering, heat-setting for synthetics, and water-repellent or down-proof coatings for outerwear fabrics are added at the end.
Types of taffeta
- Shot (iridescent) taffeta: warp and weft in different colours, so the fabric shimmers between shades.
- Paper taffeta: very light and thin but stiff, used for full skirts and dramatic sleeves.
- Moire taffeta: pressed through heavy engraved rollers to create a wavy watermark pattern.
- Antique taffeta: woven with slubbed yarns for a textured, vintage look; popular in curtains.
- Stretch taffeta: includes spandex for more comfortable fitted garments.
- Nylon and polyester taffeta: light, smooth fabrics used for jacket linings, down jacket shells, umbrellas, bags and flags.
Taffeta vs satin
If you want a full skirt that stands away from the body, choose taffeta. If you want a gown that skims the body and catches the light, choose satin or charmeuse. Silk shantung sits between the two: crisp like taffeta, but with visible slubs in the yarn.
Strengths
- Holds volume and structure without heavy layers
- Elegant soft sheen and rich colours
- Shot and moire versions add depth
- Synthetic taffeta is light, smooth and wind resistant
Drawbacks
- Frays quickly at cut edges
- Shows needle holes, so fitting changes are hard
- Creases can become permanent in silk
- Rustling sound is not for everyone
What do 190T and 210T mean?
Polyester and nylon taffeta used for linings, umbrellas and jacket shells is often sold with a “T” number, such as 170T, 190T or 210T. It refers to the total number of warp and weft threads per square inch. A higher T number means a denser, smoother and usually more down-proof fabric. Many such fabrics also get a water-repellent finish or a polyurethane coating on the back for rainwear.
How to tell silk taffeta from synthetic
- Sound: silk taffeta has a soft, papery rustle; polyester taffeta can sound sharper.
- Hand: silk feels crisp yet warm and dry; synthetics feel slicker and cooler.
- Burn test on a thread: silk smells like burning hair and leaves soft ash; polyester and nylon melt into hard beads.
- Price and label: silk taffeta is far more expensive and should say 100 percent silk.
A fabric with a long history
Silk taffeta was a luxury fabric for centuries, prized in European courts for gowns that rustled as the wearer moved. In the 1800s it was a favourite for full skirts, bodices and petticoats. The arrival of synthetic fibres in the 20th century made taffeta affordable for prom and bridesmaid dresses, linings and outerwear.
What is taffeta used for?
- Formal wear: ball gowns, bridesmaid dresses, prom dresses and bridal skirts.
- Petticoats and underlayers: adds volume under tulle and organza.
- Linings: coats, jackets and handbags, especially in acetate, polyester or nylon.
- Outerwear: nylon taffeta shells for lightweight and down jackets.
- Home decor: curtains, bed skirts, lampshades and cushions.
- Accessories: bows, sashes, ribbons and evening bags.
How to sew taffeta
- Make a mock-up first: taffeta shows every needle hole, so perfect the fit in cheaper fabric.
- Use a fine sharp needle: 60/8 to 70/10 microtex; see our guide to the sewing machine needle for silk.
- Pin only inside seam allowances with fine pins, or use pattern weights.
- Stitch length about 2 to 2.5 mm with fine polyester thread; hold the fabric taut but do not pull it.
- Finish every seam: French seams, bound seams or an overlocker, because taffeta frays fast.
- Press low and dry: use a press cloth, no water spray on silk, and test on a scrap first.
- Underline if needed: organza or cotton batiste underlining reduces creasing and adds support.
How to care for taffeta
- Dry clean silk and acetate taffeta and structured gowns.
- Wash polyester and nylon taffeta cool on a gentle cycle only if the label allows, and hang to dry.
- Hang garments on padded hangers in breathable garment bags.
- Pad folds with acid-free tissue to stop permanent creases during storage.
- Keep away from direct sunlight, which fades silk and weakens it.
Planning to dye silk taffeta? Silk takes acid dyes well; see our guide to acid dyes for silk. For broader fabric comparisons, browse our fabric types and specifications guide.
