What Is Damask? Damask vs Jacquard vs Brocade and How It Is Woven

What is damask?

Damask is a patterned fabric in which the design is woven in, not printed or embroidered. It is made on a jacquard loom by switching between two weaves: a warp-faced satin and a weft-faced sateen. Because light reflects differently from each weave, a damask woven in one colour still shows a clear pattern of shiny and matte areas. Turn it over and the same pattern appears in reverse, which makes damask a reversible fabric.

The name comes from Damascus, a historic centre of silk weaving and trade. Damask weaving spread to Italy, France, Flanders and later Ireland and Scotland, where linen damask table linen became a household treasure.

How damask is woven

Early damasks were woven on draw looms, where an assistant lifted groups of warp threads by hand to form the pattern. In 1804 Joseph-Marie Jacquard introduced a punched-card mechanism that controlled each warp thread automatically. Modern electronic jacquard looms work on the same principle with digital pattern files.

In the pattern areas the warp floats over several weft threads (satin), so the surface shows mostly warp. In the background the weft floats over the warp (sateen), so the surface shows mostly weft. Even when warp and weft are the same colour, the two surfaces catch light differently. Damasks can also use different coloured warp and weft for a two-colour design.

Damask vs jacquard vs brocade

Jacquard is the broad family: any fabric whose pattern is woven on a jacquard mechanism, including damask, brocade, matelassé and many tapestry fabrics. Damask is the flat, reversible member of that family. Brocade adds extra weft yarns, often metallic or in several colours, that float on the surface to create raised motifs, so the back is messy and the fabric is not reversible.

Types of damask

• Linen damask: the classic for tablecloths and napkins; heavy, cool, long lasting and lustrous after ironing.
• Cotton damask: softer and more affordable, used for table linen, hotel bedding and damask-stripe sheets.
• Silk damask: luxurious upholstery, wall coverings, drapery and historic dress.
• Wool damask: used historically for furnishing and garments.
• Synthetic damask: polyester or viscose blends for affordable curtains, cushions and linings.
• Two-colour and lampas styles: richer figured fabrics related to damask, used in decorative furnishing.

What is damask used for?

• Table linen: tablecloths, napkins and runners. See our guide to the best fabric for tablecloths for how damask compares.
• Upholstery and curtains: traditional and hotel interiors.
• Bedding: cotton damask duvet covers, pillowcases and damask-stripe sheets.
• Garments and linings: jackets, waistcoats, ties and evening wear.
• Embroidery: plain linen is easier to stitch on than damask; if you want to decorate table linen, read about linen tablecloths for embroidery.

How to recognise true woven damask

• Turn it over: true damask shows the same pattern on the back with the shine reversed.
• Look at the surface: the pattern lies flat in the cloth; there are no raised threads, prints or stitches.
• Tilt it in the light: the motif appears and fades as the angle changes, because it is made by sheen, not ink.
• Check for floats: long, loose threads on the back point to brocade or another jacquard, not damask.

Choosing damask table linen

Linen damask is the most luxurious and long lasting; it is heavy, cool, absorbent and becomes more lustrous with each wash and press. Cotton damask is softer, cheaper and easier to iron, and is common in hotels and restaurants. Polyester or poly-cotton damask resists stains and wrinkles but is less absorbent for napkins.

To size a tablecloth, measure the table and add twice the drop you want. A drop of about 20 to 30 cm suits everyday dining, while formal settings often use a longer drop. For napkins, around 50 cm square is a common dinner size.

Damask in bedding and interiors

Damask-stripe sheets alternate satin and sateen stripes in the same colour, giving a subtle tone-on-tone look common in hotels. In interiors, silk and viscose damask cover walls, chairs and cushions, while large damask motifs inspired the patterned wallpapers and prints sold as “damask style”.

How to care for damask

Care depends on fibre. Linen and cotton damask can be washed and ironed; silk and many upholstery damasks need professional cleaning.

• Avoid chlorine bleach on coloured damask and on silk.
• Vacuum upholstery damask gently with a brush attachment and protect it from strong sunlight.
• For heirloom linen, store clean and unstarched, as starch can attract insects.

Compare damask with other woven fabrics in our fabric types and specifications guide.

Frequently asked questions