What Is Flannel? Fabric, Weaves, Weights and How It Differs from Fleece
Flannel is a woven fabric brushed for a soft, warm nap. Here is how it is made, the main types, how it differs from plaid and fleece, and how to stop it shrinking and pilling.
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Quick answer
Flannel is a soft, warm woven fabric whose surface is brushed to raise a fuzzy nap that traps air. It is usually made from cotton, sometimes wool or synthetics, in a plain or twill weave. Flannel is a fabric, not a pattern: many flannel shirts are plaid, but plaid can be printed on any cloth. Flannel is woven, while fleece is a knit.
Key takeaways
- Flannel is defined by brushing (napping), not by fibre or pattern.
- Cotton flannel is used for shirts, sheets and pyjamas; wool flannel is a smooth suiting cloth.
- Flannel is woven and breathable; fleece is a knitted, usually polyester, fabric that is warmer for its weight.
- Pre-wash cotton flannel before sewing and dry it low to limit shrinkage and pilling.
Contents11 sections
What is flannel fabric?
Flannel is a soft woven fabric whose surface has been brushed to lift tiny fibre ends into a fuzzy layer called the nap. That nap traps air close to the body, which is why flannel feels warm and cosy. Flannel can be brushed on one side or both, woven in a plain or twill structure, and made from cotton, wool or synthetic fibres. What makes it flannel is the brushed finish, not the fibre and not the pattern.
The cloth is usually traced back to Wales, where wool flannel was being made by the 1600s. Cotton flannel became common in the 1800s and is what most people mean by flannel today.
Flannel at a glance
- Construction
- Woven (plain or twill), brushed on one or both sides
- Common fibres
- Cotton; wool for suiting; some poly blends
- Typical weight
- Shirting about 4 to 6 oz per sq yd; heavy shirts and jackets 8 oz and up
- Feel
- Soft, warm, slightly fuzzy
- Watch for
- Shrinkage, pilling, lint shedding
- Uses
- Shirts, sheets, pyjamas, quilts, baby items, suiting
How is flannel made?
Flannel starts with a softer, lower-twist yarn so its fibre ends can be teased out. After weaving, the cloth runs through napping machines with wire-covered rollers that brush up the surface. Shearing then trims the nap to an even height.
- SpinningFibre is spun into a softer, lower-twist yarn so loose fibre ends can be lifted later.
- WeavingPlain or twill weave; yarn-dyed checks and plaids are woven at this stage.
- NappingRollers covered in fine wire brushes tease fibre ends out of the yarns.
- ShearingBlades trim the raised fibres to an even height for a neat surface.
- FinishingWashing and compressive pre-shrinking stabilise the cloth before cutting.
The nap is created mechanically after weaving; no chemicals are needed for the fuzz.
Plaid flannel shirts are usually yarn-dyed: the yarns are dyed before weaving, so the check goes right through the fabric and looks the same on both sides. Cheaper versions print the plaid on one side only.
Types of flannel
Cotton flannel
The everyday kind used for shirts, sheets, pyjamas and quilts. Heavier, tightly woven cotton flannel with a dense nap lasts longer and pills less.
Wool flannel
A smooth, lightly napped wool cloth used for tailored trousers, blazers and suits. It drapes beautifully and has a soft, matte look.
Flannelette
A lighter cotton fabric usually napped on one side, popular for nightwear and baby wraps.
Ceylon and blended flannels
Ceylon is a wool and cotton blend used for shirts. Cotton-polyester flannels resist shrinking and wrinkles but feel less natural.
Synthetic flannel
Polyester or acrylic “flannel” throws are often knitted and brushed, which makes them closer to fleece than to true woven flannel.
Flannel vs fleece
People use the words interchangeably, but they are different fabrics.
- Construction
- Flannel: Woven, then brushed
- Fleece: Knitted, then brushed and often sheared
- Usual fibre
- Flannel: Cotton, sometimes wool
- Fleece: Polyester, or cotton-polyester blends
- Breathability
- Flannel: Breathes well, absorbs sweat
- Fleece: Warmer for its weight, less breathable
- Stretch
- Flannel: Little stretch, holds shape
- Fleece: Stretchy and drapey
- Moisture
- Flannel: Absorbs water, dries slower
- Fleece: Repels water, dries fast
- Best for
- Flannel: Shirts, sheets, pyjamas, baby items
- Fleece: Jackets, throws, hoodies, outdoor layers
- Weak spot
- Flannel: Can shrink if not pre-shrunk
- Fleece: Pills and holds static
Both feel cosy, but they are built differently and suit different uses.
From our lab data
Brushed fabrics carry loose surface fibre, and that shows up in testing. In 744 knit fabric lab reports our team reviewed between July and October 2026, fleece was the construction that failed rubbing (crocking) tests most often, at about 35 percent of fleece rubbing tests. Most of the pilling failures were heavy CVC fleece and terry. These reports were mostly ones flagged for review, so real-world failure rates are lower, but the pattern holds: deep-coloured brushed fabrics need extra care with rub-off and pilling, whether woven flannel or knitted fleece. Our cotton fleece dyeing, finishing and testing guide explains why.
Flannel vs plaid vs tartan
- Flannel is a brushed fabric.
- Plaid is a pattern of crossing stripes in two or more colours.
- Tartan is a specific plaid tied to Scottish clans and regions.
So a plaid flannel shirt is a brushed fabric with a plaid pattern. A plaid poplin shirt has the pattern without the brushing.
Strengths
- Soft and warm without much weight
- Breathable and absorbent, comfortable for sleeping
- Gets softer with washing
- Easy to sew, forgiving for beginners
Drawbacks
- Cotton flannel can shrink if not pre-shrunk
- Pills and sheds lint, especially lower grades
- Bulky seams on heavy weights
- Slower to dry than synthetic fleece
Choosing flannel sheets
Flannel sheets are rated by weight, usually in ounces per square yard or grams per square metre (GSM), not by thread count. Heavier flannel is warmer, softer and pills less. As a rough guide, sheets around 5 ounces per square yard (about 170 GSM) feel substantial and cosy, while lighter flannel is better for mild climates. Brushing on both sides gives the softest feel. Portuguese and German mills are well known for dense, long-lasting flannel bedding, but weight and brushing tell you more than the country of origin.
Is flannel good for babies and quilts?
Cotton flannel is a favourite for receiving blankets, burp cloths, cot sheets and baby pyjamas because it is soft, absorbent and breathable. For quilts, flannel adds warmth and a cuddly hand, but it stretches and frays more than quilting cotton, so pre-wash it, starch it before cutting, and use slightly larger seam allowances. Rag quilts take advantage of the fraying by leaving seam allowances on the outside to fluff up in the wash.
Is flannel good for summer?
Lightweight cotton flannel is comfortable on cool summer nights and air-conditioned rooms because cotton breathes and absorbs sweat. In hot, humid weather most people prefer lighter, smoother fabrics such as percale, linen or seersucker.
How to judge flannel quality
- Weight: for sheets, heavier flannel (often quoted in ounces per square yard or GSM) feels warmer and lasts longer.
- Nap: a dense, even nap on both sides wears better than a thin nap on one side.
- Weave: hold it to the light; a tight weave pills and stretches less.
- Yarn-dyed checks: the pattern should look almost the same on the reverse.
- Testing standards: industry performance requirements for flannels cover strength, shrinkage and colour fastness, explained in our guide to performance standards for flannels.
Sewing and caring for flannel
- Pre-wash and dry flannel yardage the way you will launder the finished item, so shrinkage happens before cutting.
- Cut checks and plaids carefully; the nap and pattern can shift, so use a walking foot when matching.
- Finish seams with a serger or zigzag stitch because flannel frays and sheds lint.
- Wash warm, not hot, on a gentle cycle and dry on low. Remove while barely damp to reduce pilling and shrinkage.
- Rag quilts make a feature of flannel’s fraying edges; see our picks for the best fabric for rag quilts.
For more fabric comparisons, browse our fabric types and specifications guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is flannel a fabric or a pattern?
Flannel is a fabric. It is defined by its brushed, fuzzy surface. Plaid and tartan are patterns, and many flannel shirts happen to be plaid, but you can find plain flannel and plaid fabric that is not flannel.
What is flannel usually made of?
Most flannel today is 100 percent cotton. Traditional flannel was wool, and wool flannel is still used for trousers and suits. There are also cotton-polyester, viscose and fully synthetic flannels.
Is flannel warmer than fleece?
Weight for weight, fleece is usually warmer and blocks wind better. Flannel is warm but more breathable, which is why flannel sheets and shirts feel comfortable over a wider range of temperatures.
Does flannel shrink?
Cotton flannel can shrink noticeably in hot washes and hot dryers, especially if it was not pre-shrunk at the mill. Wash cool to warm, dry on low, and pre-wash yardage before sewing.
Why does my flannel pill?
Brushing deliberately loosens fibre ends, and friction rolls them into small balls. Lower-quality flannel uses shorter, weaker fibres that pill faster. Wash inside out, avoid overloading the machine and dry on low.
What is flannelette?
Flannelette is a lighter cotton fabric napped usually on one side. It is softer and thinner than standard flannel and common in nightwear and baby wraps.
