Sewing Room Management in Apparel industry- Practical documentation of 2021

Sewing Room management in apparel industry

Sewing in the garment industry is the main profitable section. Sewing Room Management in the Apparel industry is so important factor. Sewing is a craft that involves stitching fabrics or other materials together by using a needle and thread by hand or with a machine. After receiving the cut garment parts from the cutting section, they are sewn sequentially to make a garment.

Some pre-required factors are checked before going to bulk production. They are:

  • All the required machines are available or not. 
  • The workforce optimum or not 
  • The line is arranged according to the given layout 
  • If the cutting parts are numbered 
  • The selection of needle sizes is done or not, etc. 

Discussing points of this articles:

  • To know about the sewing section.
  • Gather knowledge about the layout of different garments.
  • To know about the different sewing machine and their working process.
  • Getting knowledge about the defects and remedies of garments.
  • To know about different types of needles used in the garments industry.

Quality Assurance organogram of sewing floor:

The quality assurance department of a sewing floor is given step by step.

GM Quality Assurance

Manager Quality assurance

Asst./Deputy Manager

Sr. Officer/ Officer

The Quality Controller

Quality Supervisor

The Quality Inspector

Flow chart of Sewing in the garment industry:

Flow chart of sewing floor is below step by step

Preproduction meeting

Cutting quality

Item conformation

Input

layout

In-process quality control

Styling process checklist color wise

1st production report

End table hourly repot

End table management report

Working breakdown system:

Preproduction report: 

  • Approved BOM(Bill of material) sheet.
  • Approved trim card.
  • Approved sample.
  • Approved operation chart.
  • Approved measurement sheet.

Cutting Quality:

Cut panel measurement check, 3-pcs sticker match (due to shade), and shrinkage report.

Item confirmation: 

Fabric composition, trims card check, embellishment check, and visual inspection.

Input check: 

  • Bundle check.
  • Cut panel measurement check.
  • BOM.
  • Trim card.
  • Sample.
  • Operation chart.
  • Measurement chart.

Layout: 

Garments layout and set-up process mock-up as per buyer requirement.

In-process Quality control: 

Every hour check 7-pcs inline process which effects on traffic light board.

Styling process checking in List color-wise:

Check every process and also check all accessories which match with a trim card.

1st production report: 

Measurement check, styling check, Accessories check, and check all kinds of tests.

End table hourly report & End table Measurement report:

 1.5 AQL audit. Here if lot accepted, send to finishing. If a lot failed, it would recheck and re-audit.

Different types of product:

  • Polo shirt
  • T-shirt
  • Jacket
  • Sweatshirt
  • Long pant
  • Short Pant
  • Laggings
  • Tank Top

Different types of sewing machines used in the garment industry:

There are thousands of sewing machines available in the garments industry. Some of the basic machines are discussing below:

types of sewing machines used in garment industry

Machine Name:  

Brand: Brother 

Origin: Japan 

Stitch Type: Lock Stitch 

RPM: 400-4000 

Machine Name: Over Lock Machine 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: PAGASUS 

Origin: Japan                                                        

Stitch Type: Over edge stitch 

RPM: 400-8000 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: JUKI

Origin: Japan 

Stitch Type: Over edge stitch 

RPM: 400-7000

Machine Name: Flat Lock Machine 

types of sewing machines used in garment industry

Brand: PAGASUS 

Origin: Japan 

Stitch Type: Chain stitch 

RPM: 2600 

Machine Name: Bar Tack Machine 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: Brother 

Origin: China 

SPI: 90-100    

Machine Name: Button Hole Machine 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: Brother 

Origin: China 

RPM: 3500 

Machine Name: Button Attach Machine 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: Brother 

Origin: China 

RPM: 1500 

Machine Name: Feed off the Arm Machine 

Sewing in garment industry

Brand: Brother 

Origin: Japan 

RPM: 2860-3450 

The function of different sewing machine:

Plain sewing machine:

  • Hem joining
  • Pocket joining
  • Side joining
  • Band Tack
  • Sideband joining
  • Top Seam
  • Zipper join
  • Zipper top join
  • Hood Tuck

Overlock sewing machine:

  • Hood outer part join
  • Hood inner part join
  • Inner & outer part join
  • Servicing join
  • Sleeve join
  • Front & back part join
  • Hem servicing join
  • Side seam

Flatlock machine:

  • Top seam
  • Armhole top seam
  • Front & back join top seam
  • Back tape join

Bar tack machine:

  • Tuck

The feed of the arm:

  • Shoulder top seam

Flatlock cylinder bed:

  • Sleeve hem

Button attaching machine:

  • Button attach

Eyelet machine:

  • Eyelet attach

Basic parts of sewing machine:

  • Bobbin: 

   The bobbin is a cylinder on which lower thread is wound in a plain machine.

  • Bobbin Case: 

   It holds the bobbin.

  • Pressure Foot:

 Pressure foot holds fabric flat as it is fed through the machine and stitched.

  • Needle Clamp:

It is used to holds & tightens the needle.

  • Needle Bar:

It is used to hold the needle.

  • Pressure Regulator:

The pressure regulator is used to adjust the pressure foot of the sewing machine.

  • Needle take –up:

It takes up the needle to its heights position of the sewing machine.

  • Tension post: 

It gives proper tension to the needle thread of the sewing machine.

  • Feed dog:

Feed dog is a critical component of a sewing machine that moves the fabric forward after Sewing.

  • Scale:

It controls the density of the stitch per inch.

  • Throat plate:

A throat plate is a basic component of a sewing machine where a stitch is formed.

  • Spreader:

It is used to give zig-zag stitches.

  • Knife lever:

It moves the knife up and down to cut fabric

  • Thread take-up lever:

The thread take-up lever moves up and down, holding the thread following the needle.

  • Thread guide: It guides thread to the needle.
  • Looper: It creates a loop of thread in the overlock & flat lock machine.

Types of needle for a sewing machine:

  • DBX – Plain machine needle
  • DCX – Overlock machine needle
  • UYX – Flat lock machine needle
  • DPX – Buttonhole needle
  • TVX – Feed of the arm machine needle
  • UOX – Kansai machine needle
  • FLX – Flat seamer machine needle

Different parts of needle:

Sewing in garment industry
  1. Shank.
  2. Long groove.
  3. Short groove.
  4. Eye.
  5. Point.

Needle number used according to fabric:

  • Single jersey: 7,9
  • Fleece: 9,10,11
  • Terry: 9,10
  • Pique: 7,9
  • Lacoste: 9,10
  • Interlock: 9,10

Lay out of basic polo shirt:

  1. Moon join
  2. Moon T/S
  3. Moon Gap Scissoring
  4. Front and Back part match
  5. Shoulder join
  6. Shoulder T/S & Cut
  7. Sleeve paring & match
  8. Sleeve join
  9. Armhole T/S
  10. Thread cut & fold
  11. Placket position mark at body
  12. Placket fusing
  13. Placket mark
  14. Placket O/L
  15. Placket attach
  16. Placket Scissoring
  17. Nose Tack
  18. Collar servicing & mark
  19. Collar tack with body
  20. Collar join with back tape
  21. Back tape cut & placket fold
  22. Label position mark
  23. Back tape close
  24. Placket scissoring & thread cut
  25. Lower placket close
  26. Upper placket 1/16 T/S
  27. Pattern T/S
  28. Placket box & thread cut
  29. Bottom hem
  30. Check & thread
  31. Care label make
  32. Side seam &fold
  33. Side band tack & placket inner tack
  34. Side band make
  35. Check & thread cut
  36. Sleeve hem
  37. Check & thread cut
  38. Button hole
  39. Button position mark
  40. Button attach
  41. Button insert ,Thread cut & fold 

Different types of stitch:

  • Lock stitch:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Chain stitch:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Over edge stitch:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Tuck stitch:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Button hole:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Button attach:
Sewing in garment industry
  • Eyelet attach:
Sewing in garment industry

Different types of stitch defects:

Broken stitch: In the middle of Sewing, breaking the thread is called a broken stitch.

Causes:

  • Unskilled operator.
  • Incorrect machine adjustment.
  • If thread breaks during trimming.

Skip stitch: If the stitch is not locked properly.

Causes:

  • Incorrect selection of needle size and thread according to the fabric.
  • Incorrect machine adjustment.
  • Bad quality sewing thread.

Jam stitch: Double stitches in the same position is called jam stitch.

Causes:

  • Unskilled operator.
  • Incorrect machine adjustment.

Puckering: After Sewing, if fabric is creased.

Causes:

  • Incorrect fabric grain line.
  • Improper maintenance of sewing allowance. 

Oil spot: Any types of oil mark on the fabric.

Causes:

  • Incorrect machine maintenance
  • Oil leakage in the machine.

Raw edge: Uncut edges of fabric is called raw edge.

Causes:

  • Wrong marking.
  • Improper machine adjustment.
  • Careless operating system.

Needle Hole: Any type of hole in the fabric due to the broken needle.

Causes:

  • Broken needle.
  • Wrong needle number used.
  • Careless operating system during the repair.

Mismatch Stripe: Mismatch stripe after Sewing.

Causes:

  • Incorrect cutting.
  • Improper machine adjustment.
  • Unskilled operator.

Dirty Mark: Any types of dirty marks occurred in the fabric.

Causes:

Uncut Thread: Uncut thread after Sewing.

Causes:

  • Incorrect adjustment of auto trimming machine.
  • The carelessness of the operator and helper. 
  • Incorrect thread trimmings part.

Conclusion: 

From this article, we have gathered vast knowledge about Sewing Room Management in the Apparel industry. We have learned many things, such as different types of Sewing machines, their functions, different types of faults with their causes and remedies, production techniques, and the overall management system of the sewing section. Officers and workers of the Sewing section were very helpful.

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