Procolored DTF Printer Lineup: F8, F13, K13 Lite, P13

Contents10 sections

1. Procolored DTF printer lineup at a glance
2. How we chose these DTF printers
3. Procolored F13 DTF Printer
4. Procolored K13 Lite DTF Printer
5. Procolored P13 DTF Printer
6. Procolored F8 DTF Printer
7. What should you check before buying a Procolored DTF printer?
8. How does DTF compare with sublimation?
9. FAQ
10. Final verdict

A Procolored DTF printer can produce full-colour garment transfers for cotton, polyester and common blends, but the printer is only one station in the job. You also need film, hot-melt powder, a curing method, a heat press, clean storage and a daily maintenance habit. For most small apparel businesses, we would start with the Procolored F13 DTF Printer because it gives the most sensible balance between regular output potential and a manageable workbench workflow.

We have ranked these machines from their published positioning, design features described in current listings, the consumable workflow DTF requires, and recurring owner concerns such as white-ink maintenance, setup and support. Listing configurations can change, so treat the exact bundle page and the supplied manual as the final word before you buy.

What’s in this article10 sections

Procolored DTF printer lineup at a glance

The F13 is our best overall choice, while the K13 Lite, P13 and F8 suit different limits on budget, growth and workspace.

Do not choose from the model name alone. A DTF package can differ by region and seller: one listing may include a curing oven, a shaker or extra consumables, while another supplies only the printer and starter inks. Compare like with like, including software, warranty route, replacement parts and the support contact that will actually answer setup questions.

Model	Our position	Best fit	Check before ordering
F13	Best overall	Growing small transfer shop	Usable print width, bundle tools and support
K13 Lite	Value contender	Careful first DTF setup	Included workflow accessories and software
P13	Production option	Regular small-business orders	Film handling, ink system and bench requirements
F8	Space saver	Constrained home workspace	Full curing area and realistic daily output

How we chose these DTF printers

We chose these models by looking at the factors that decide whether a desktop DTF setup earns its bench space: usable output, ink control, workflow completeness, support and the real maintenance load. Print quality begins at the printhead, but a saleable transfer also depends on a stable white layer, correctly melted adhesive powder and repeatable heat pressing.

Transfer workflow, not just the printer

A printer that lays down sharp CMYK ink cannot rescue a weak powder coat or an under-cured adhesive. The inked film must be powdered while wet, excess powder must be removed, and the adhesive must be gelled or cured according to the powder supplier’s instructions. The finished transfer is then pressed onto the garment at the film and powder maker’s specified time, temperature and pressure.

That is why we favour an option that matches the whole job. A compact printer can work well, but it still needs clear space for film loading, powder application, curing, cooling and transfer storage. Planning only for the printer footprint is a common new-buyer error.

White-ink control

White ink contains dense titanium dioxide pigment. It settles more readily than dye-based inks, and settled pigment can create weak white prints, blocked nozzles or inconsistent underbases. A useful DTF machine has a clear, documented approach to white-ink circulation, agitation or recirculation, plus routine instructions that the owner can realistically carry out.

Before purchase, ask how white ink moves from bottle to damper and printhead, what happens during idle periods, and what cleaning materials are approved. Do not assume that “automatic cleaning” means no maintenance. Capping, wiping and checking nozzle condition still need operator attention.

Output that matches order volume

For a craft seller making a few transfers each week, dependable startup and low waste often matter more than theoretical speed. For a shop making repeated gang sheets, film loading, RIP processing, powder handling and curing become the bottlenecks. The right machine is the one that keeps those stages moving at roughly the same pace.

Ask for the usable print width rather than relying on a family name or headline measurement. Also check whether the stated speed refers to a draft mode, a particular resolution, a single pass or a production-quality setting. A slower, stable print with a solid white base is normally more valuable than a fast transfer that needs remaking.

Software and colour management

DTF needs RIP software to arrange artwork, control ink layers and build the white underbase. Confirm that the supplied software supports your computer operating system, that its licence is included rather than temporary, and that the seller explains installation and profiles. If you use transparent PNG artwork, check how the RIP creates white behind coloured areas and whether you can edit choke, spread or underbase settings.

Colour is also a fabric issue. Dark cotton needs enough white opacity for bright colour, while thin white ink under a pale polyester may be unnecessary or may change handle. Keep sample swatches of every garment blank you sell, because knit construction, surface hairiness and finishing all alter the perceived print.

Support and replaceable parts

A DTF printer is a wet-processing machine in miniature, not an ordinary office printer. It uses consumable dampers, wipers, capping parts, tubing, cleaning solution, film, powder and ink. Clear replacement-part availability and useful technical support can matter more than a small difference in initial machine cost.

Ask who provides warranty support, where parts ship from, what the process is for a damaged delivery, and whether remote installation support is available. Read the written terms, not only a marketplace bullet point. Save the unboxing photographs and retain packaging until the printer completes its first successful test prints.

1. 1Warm upLet the printer complete its normal start-up cycle.
2. 2Check nozzlesPrint the nozzle pattern before production transfers.
3. 3Inspect white inkConfirm circulation or agitation is operating as designed.
4. 4Print small jobCheck colour, white underbase and edge definition.
5. 5Clean stationsWipe ink residue using the maker-approved method.
6. 6Park correctlyCap the printhead following the shutdown instructions.

Daily care prevents white-ink settling and blocked nozzles.

Procolored F13 DTF Printer

The Procolored F13 DTF Printer is our best overall pick because it is the model we would compare first when a seller expects regular apparel-transfer work rather than occasional novelty prints. It occupies the useful middle ground for a small operation: enough potential to support repeat orders, while remaining a setup that can be organised around a dedicated workbench instead of a production floor.

Its real advantage will depend on the exact configuration. Confirm the usable print area, included ink colours, white-ink circulation arrangement, compatible film type, software licence and whether curing equipment is included. If a listing describes output speed, ask which resolution, pass setting and white-ink setting it uses. Those details affect both transfer opacity and the actual time between sending a file and pressing a shirt.

Compared with the F8, the F13 makes more sense when you need more capacity headroom and do not want to outgrow a first purchase quickly. Compared with the P13, it is the more balanced starting point unless your order pattern already justifies a more dedicated workflow. It is not the right choice for someone who prints only once every few weeks; white ink and idle printer time are a poor combination.

Procolored K13 Lite DTF Printer

The Procolored K13 Lite DTF Printer is the one to consider when you want a more cautious first step into DTF and are prepared to verify exactly what the package contains. “Lite” can signal a simpler package or positioning, not a promise that the machine needs less maintenance. Every white-ink DTF system still needs regular circulation checks, nozzle tests and correct shutdown.

Check the accessory list closely. A workable new setup needs a way to cure powder, a heat press with even temperature and pressure, film and powder storage, cleaning supplies, and enough extraction or ventilation for the powder and curing process. Follow chemical and heat-product labels and work in a ventilated space. If these items are separate purchases, calculate the complete workstation cost rather than comparing printer boxes alone.

Choose the K13 Lite over the F13 if modest output and a more conservative entry route matter more than growth capacity. Choose the F13 instead if your artwork commonly needs larger gang layouts or if you already have steady weekly demand. Buyers should also ask whether the machine arrives ready for their local electrical supply and whether the seller supplies clear setup documentation in their language.

Procolored P13 DTF Printer

The Procolored P13 DTF Printer belongs on the short list for an established small seller whose main question is workflow consistency rather than merely getting started. A model positioned for repeat output is useful only if the surrounding stations can keep up. Powder application, curing, cooling and pressing must have enough physical room and operator time to prevent film from collecting dust, curling or being handled while adhesive is still too hot.

Before buying, inspect the listing for details on film feed, ink delivery, white-ink management, available profiles and the service process. Ask for the machine dimensions with covers, trays and any external components in their operating positions, not only the shipping dimensions. Allow space to open lids, access waste areas and carry film without dragging it across a dusty bench.

Against the F13, the P13 is the more sensible choice only where its exact listed configuration gives a meaningful workflow benefit for your expected orders. Do not buy it simply because it sounds more industrial. If the business has not yet developed a daily printing rhythm, a well-maintained smaller system can produce more usable transfers than a larger machine left idle for long periods.

Procolored F8 DTF Printer

The Procolored F8 DTF Printer is the practical model to investigate when a limited home studio or small retail back room sets the buying limit. Compact equipment can reduce the printer footprint, but it does not shrink the process into a single square of bench. You still need clean film storage, room to powder safely, a curing location and a heat-press station.

For low-volume custom work, compactness can be more valuable than chasing headline production figures. Short runs are easier to organise when film, powder and finished transfers each have a labelled place. The risk is that a buyer treats a small printer like a hobby inkjet and runs it only when an order arrives. DTF white ink rewards routine, so print and inspect a nozzle pattern on the schedule in the manual.

Choose the F8 rather than the F13 if available space is truly limited and your realistic output is modest. Do not choose it on the assumption that it eliminates the need for curing equipment or daily care. If you sell at markets or accept tight turnaround work, calculate how many transfers you must make during a typical rush before selecting the most compact route.

What should you check before buying a Procolored DTF printer?

Check the entire transfer system, the fabrics you sell and the service route before paying for a DTF printer. A good purchase is a machine that you can operate, maintain and support consistently, not simply one that fits a quoted print width.

Match DTF to your garment blanks

DTF transfers work across cotton, polyester and blends because the adhesive bonds to the garment surface rather than relying on dye migration into polyester. This makes DTF useful for dark cotton hoodies, coloured performance polyester and mixed-fibre workwear, where dye sublimation has limits. For a fuller comparison, see our dye sublimation printer guide.

The trade-off is handle. A large, solid DTF chest print adds a polymer layer, so it can feel heavier than a print with open areas or a dye-sublimated design. Use artwork that preserves open fabric where possible, and make a sample on each blank. Compare smooth jersey, brushed fleece, rib, piqué and water-repellent finishes separately; a transfer that looks excellent on one may press differently on another.

Understand print width and gang sheets

Usable width is the width you can print reliably after allowing for film edges and feed tolerance. It is more useful than the maximum width in a headline because gang-sheet layout determines material use. Put small left-chest logos, sleeve designs and neck labels together where your RIP software permits, but leave adequate space for cutting and avoid placing critical elements against film edges.

Ask whether the maker gives a maximum image size, a recommended media margin and instructions for loading film. Film curl can cause head strikes, especially in dry or changing room conditions. Store unused film sealed, flat and away from high humidity; moisture can affect powder behaviour and can create uneven coating.

Plan the powder and curing station

DTF powder is not an optional extra; it is the adhesive layer that fixes the printed ink to the garment. The powder must coat the wet ink evenly, while loose excess needs to come off before curing. A dirty powder station is a common cause of unwanted specks around a design, so keep it away from open garments and finished transfers.

Use the powder manufacturer’s cure instructions, not a guessed oven temperature or time copied from an unrelated video. Over-curing can change adhesive behaviour, while under-curing can leave the transfer weak. Keep curing and pressing records when setting up a new film-and-powder combination: note garment type, press temperature, dwell time, pressure and peel instructions.

Check heat-press capability

A reliable heat press needs even platen temperature, sufficient pressure and a bed that fits the transfer without seams or zips distorting it. Use a temperature check method appropriate to your equipment and follow the transfer supplier’s pressing instructions. A press with a displayed temperature that differs from its actual platen temperature can make a sound printer look like it has a transfer-quality problem.

Pressing is different from casual ironing. Place the garment flat, pre-press only if your transfer instructions call for it, use the required pressure and let the carrier cool or peel at the specified stage. Follow-up presses, parchment or finishing sheets also depend on the film system. Test wash durability on representative blanks before selling a new combination.

Budget for consumables and waste

Ink is only one part of the running cost. Plan for film, powder, cleaning fluid, wipes, filters where specified, maintenance parts and rejected transfers during setup. White ink normally produces the greatest maintenance concern because of its pigment load, and a neglected nozzle issue can waste film and time quickly.

Keep compatible consumables organised by type and purchase date. Do not mix ink systems without written confirmation of compatibility from the supplier, and do not pour unknown leftovers into a working bottle. Follow the label instructions for storage, handling and disposal. A clean, labelled consumables shelf is a simple quality-control tool.

Consider DTF alongside screen printing

DTF suits multicolour short runs, names, photographic artwork and on-demand garment decoration. Screen printing becomes more attractive when you repeat the same artwork in higher quantities because prepared screens can print quickly and leave a softer ink layer on suitable designs. Our screen printing guide explains where that process starts to make more commercial sense.

Many small shops use both methods rather than treating one as a total replacement. Use DTF for variable data, fast small orders and difficult colour counts. Use screen printing for repeat designs where setup time can be spread across enough garments. The best choice depends on your order mix, not on an individual printer’s marketing claim.

ProblemLikely causeFix

Broken white underbaseSettled white pigment or missing nozzlesRun a nozzle check and follow white-ink maintenance.

Powder sticks outside imageExcess powder or damp filmShake off thoroughly; store film dry.

Transfer cracks after pressingPoor cure or wrong press settingsFollow powder and film instructions exactly.

Colour looks dullWrong profile or weak white baseConfirm media profile and nozzle condition.

Film strike marksFilm curl or incorrect platen gapFlatten film and check loading instructions.

Start with the process stage most likely to create the fault.

How does DTF compare with sublimation?

DTF is the more flexible choice for mixed garment fibres and dark blanks, while dye sublimation is designed mainly for light polyester goods.

Sublimation dye turns into gas under heat and bonds within polyester, so there is no adhesive film layer and the final print can feel almost indistinguishable from the fabric. It does not make opaque white, which rules out normal dark-garment printing. DTF applies a printed transfer with adhesive, allowing it to cover dark garments and cotton, but requiring more daily printer care and a separate powder-and-cure stage.

DTF transfervsDye sublimation

Best garments

DTF transfer: Cotton, blends, polyester

Dye sublimation: Light polyester

Transfer layer

DTF transfer: Ink, adhesive, film

Dye sublimation: Dye enters polyester

Dark garments

DTF transfer: Works with white ink

Dye sublimation: Not suitable

White ink

DTF transfer: Required for many prints

Dye sublimation: Not used

Daily upkeep

DTF transfer: Higher

Dye sublimation: Usually lower

Both make transfers, but the fibre and garment requirements differ.

FAQ

Final verdict

The Procolored F13 DTF Printer is the best first choice for most buyers who expect regular transfer orders and can maintain a dedicated DTF workflow. Whichever model you choose, buy the system rather than the printer: confirm the exact bundle, organise clean curing and pressing stations, and build daily white-ink checks into the working day from the start.