CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric and Its Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing Development

In present days we normally use 100% cotton or wool french terry fabric. Here I am discussing CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric. This is to achieve higher durability and strength with the same smooth and softness. The French terry (CVC 60%+40%) fabric is often used for luxurious warmth, softness, and durability. It’s made of cotton-polyester blend and has an extremely soft pile on one side that resists piling, which may be due to the tight twist in the yarns. The smooth yarns are on the other side.

Normally French terry fabric is a loop-pile fabric with cotton filling in the loops. The fabric is available in different weights and can be used to create jumpers, shorts, pajamas, jackets, and blankets.
French terry fabric was created in the 1930s by the French textile designer Henri Desgranges.

CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric

CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric Knitting dyeing and finishing development

Here I will share the recent CVC 60% 40% french terry fabric which I developed. I am sharing here it’s knitting, dyeing, finishing, and testing experiment which I did with the fabric.

I will show about the target fabric and which I got after the experiment.

Target Parameter of the fabric:

Fabric Type: French terry

Composition: CVC (60% Cotton + 40% Polyester)

Color Name: Black

Fabric Diameter: 160 cm open.

Fabric GSM: 280

Knitting of CVC 60%+40% French terry:

The imported Yarn parameter:

Yarn count and Type30/1 CVC 80%20%+75D 36f polyester+16/1 cvc 60%+40%
Yarn composition80%cotton+20% polyester, 100% poly, CVC 60%cotton+40%polyester
Yarn lotAccording to supplier
Yarn BrandNot shareable

Knitting Parameter of CVC 60%+40% french terry fabric

Machine  Dia and Gauge30*20
Total needle1860
Stitch length45+29+45.5
Machine NoNa
Machine BrandOrizio
Machine RPM18
Grey Width204 cm open
Grey GSM280
Gray Wash
Gray Wash GSM

Dyeing of CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric:

Here will discuss the dyeing flow chart, dyeing process, dyeing recipe, and Dyeing sequence image

Dyeing flow chart of CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric:

Description of the flow chart:

Collect from knitting gray store

Batching

Heat Setting Done in finishing departmet

Polyester part dyeing

Reduction cleaning

Cotton part dying

Scouring and Bleaching

Enzyme

Cotton part dyeing

Soaping

Softening

Delivery to finishing

Dyeing Process of CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric Black Color:

Load the fabric

POLYESTER PART START

Oxalic acid+Detergent Inject = For remove impurities and neutralization

Run time 10min

Drain and wash for 5min

Acetic acid inject= For Control PH: 4.2 to 4.5

Rice the temperature at 80⁰C

Disperse dye stuff dossing 30min = For polyester part dying

Rise the temperature80 ⁰C to 95⁰C Grade 1⁰C = Grade for better penetration

Then rise temperature 95 ⁰C to 135 ⁰C Grade: 0.5 ⁰C

Run for 45min

Cooling at 135 ⁰C to 95 ⁰C grade: 1 ⁰C

Then 95 ⁰C to 79 ⁰C directly.

Check the sample = To achieve the required shade

If the shade ok then drain the dye bath

Normal hot at 80 ⁰C

Run for 10min

Wash for 10min

Caustic soda dossing 8min at temperature 50 ⁰C

Run for 5min

Rise the temperature at 80 ⁰C

Inject hydrose = for removing the loose disperse dyes

Rise the temperature at 90 ⁰C

Run for 10min

Cooling at 80 ⁰C and drain

Normal not at 90 ⁰C for 10min

Wash for 10min and drain

COTTON PART START

Detergent+Anticreasing agent+Oil remover+Peroxide stabilizer inject

Caustic soda dossing 10min

Run time 5min

Rise temperature at 70 ⁰C

Inject the Hydrogen peroxide

Rise the temperature 100 ⁰C

Run time 60min

Cooling at 78 ⁰C

Shade check = Check the whiteness and absorbency

If ok drain

Normal hot at 80 ⁰C

Run time 10 min

Inject Acetic acid = For neutralization of Caustic

Run time 5min

Drain and wash for 5min

Peroxide killer Inject run for 5min

Drain and wash 10min

Rise temperature 55 ⁰C

Inject acetic acid = to control ph 4.5 for enzyme

Inject enzyme

Run time 60min

Shade check = For check hairiness of the fabric

If ok then drain

Wash for 10min

Leveling pH check= PH 5.5 – 6;

Levelling Dosing 600c 5 minute

Runtime 10 minute

Color Dosing 25 minute

Runtime 10 minute

Salt dosing 10 minutes

Runtime 10 minute

Salt Sample Check and Fabric Quality check = The evenness of dyes

If ok then

1st Soda dosing 20 minutes (10%)

Runtime 10 minute

2nd Soda dosing 20 minutes (80%)

Run time 15min

Shade check but shade light

Addition extra color dossing 25min

Runtime 15min

Sample Check

Shade ok and then drain (Rinse drain is better)

Normal, not 80 0c run 10min

Wash until clear the loose dyes (Not more than 20min)

Inject soaping agent

Rise 90 0c and run 10min

Check shade if the ok drain

Wash clear

Fixing agent dos 5min

Runtime 10min

Wash clear

Softener dossing 7min

Check softness if ok

Unload and deliver to finishing

The actual dyeing sequence image is given below:

CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric Dyeing Scquence

Finishig of CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric:

Finishing flow chart:

Heat Setting In Stenter Parameter:

NameHeat Set
Width set165
Over Feed15 %
Temperature190
RPM/ Speed24
Pedder Pressure3+2
Vibration
Softener TypeCationic
After Dry Width160 F 165
After Dry GSM280 F 268
Before diameter 215
Before GSM 248

Slitting Parameter:

Machine Speed40
Padder pressure1.5 kg
Over Feed
Fabric In Diameter30
Fabric Out Diameter160

Stenter/Compacting

Stanter/Dryer Compacting 
Width set165  
Over Feed50%Temperature120
Temperature110Steam Pressure30
RPM/ Speed13Width set160
Padder Pressure3+2Over feed%30%
VibrationRPM/Speed14
Softener TypeCationicCompaction%blank
After Dry Width160 f 162After Width160 f 160
After Dry GSM280  F 280After GSM280 f 290
  Wash gsm293

Final width=    160 f 160                                 Final GSM=280 f 290

Shrinkage with tumble dry:

Length=+2 %

Width=-2%

SP%=2%

Shrinkage of line dry:

Length=+2.4%

Width=+0.5%

SP%=0.9 %

Comments:

Testing of the CVC 60%+40% French Terry Dyed Fabric:

To check the different quality parameters fabric was given to the testing lab for physical and chemical testing which are stated below. Here I show the actual result which I got. We took the preventive steps by checking the parameter.

 Conclusion of Test Results:

Sl. No. Test Name Results (A)
01 Dimensional Stability to Washing Pass
02 Spirality After Washing Pass
03 Color Fastness to Washing Fail
04 Color Fastness to Rubbing Pass
05 Color Fastness to Water Pass
06 Color Fastness to Perspiration Fail
07 Color Fastness To Light Pass
08 Color Fastness To Hot Press Fail
09 Resistance Of Pilling (ICI BOX Method) Pass
10 Mass Per Unit Area Pass
11 Fiber Analysis Pass

Now Description of the test process and its result.

01. Dimensional Stability To Washing 

Test Method : BS EN ISO 6330 :2012 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine wash @40 degree, Tumble Dry, 15.4gm ECE, 4gm Sodium Per borate & 0.65gm TAED  reference detergents, Wascator washing machine with 2.0 kg load. 

Sample (A) After One Wash
Direction Result Client Requirement
Length -1.3% +0.5% to -5%
Width +0.5% 

Remark: (+) Means Extension And (-) Means Shrinkage 

02.Spirality After Washing 

Test Method: BS ISO 16322-2: 2005 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine wash @40 degree, Tumble Dry, 15.4gm ECE, 4gm Sodium Per borate & 0.65gm TAED  reference detergents, Wascator washing machine with 2.0 kg load. 

Sample (A) Result (After One Wash) Client Requirement
Spirality 0.0% 3% 

03. Color Fastness To Washing 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 105 CO6-A1S :2010 

Test Condition: Temperature at 40 degree, Time 30 min, Detergent 4g/l ECE With 10 Steel Balls 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Color Change 4
Color staining 4
-Acetate 3
-Cotton 3-4
-Nylon 3-4 3
-Polyester 3-4
-Acrylic 4-5
-wool 4-5

04. Color Fastness To Rubbing 

Test Method: ISO 105 X12 :2016 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Dry Rub 4-5 4
Wet Rub 2-3 /

05. Color Fastness To Water 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 105 E01:2013 

Test Condition: Temperature at 37±2ºC, Time 4 hours. 

Sample(A) Result Client Requirement
Color Change 4
Color staining 44
-Acetate 4
-Cotton 3-4
-Nylon 3-4 3
-Polyester 4
-Acrylic 4
-wool 4

06. Color Fastness To Perspiration 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 105 E04:2013 

Test Condition: Temperature at 37±2 degrees, Time 4 hours. 

Sample (A) Result 
Acid AlkalineClint Requirment
Color Change 4
Color staining 444
-Acetate 44
-Cotton 3-4 34
-Nylon 3-4 3-4 4
-Polyester 44
-Acrylic 4-5 44
-wool 4-54

07. Color Fastness To Light 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 105 B02:2014, Air Cool Xenon, Arc Lamp. 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Up to Grade 4 (Blue wool scale) 4

08. Color Fastness To Hot Press 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 105X11:1994* 

Test Condition: Temperature at 1500 C

Sample (A) ResultResultResultResult
   Client Requirement 
Grading Color Change Color Staining Change Staining
Dry Hot Press 4-5 4-Mar
Damp Hot Press 4-5 4-5 4-Mar
Wet Hot Press 4-5 4-Mar

09. Resistance Of Pilling (ICI Box Method) 

Test Method: BS EN ISO 12945-1:2020 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result  Client Requirement
After 10800 Cycle Length Direction Width Direction 
Grade 4-Mar
Note: Fuzzy effects are observed.   

10. Mass Per Unit Area 

Test Method: BS EN 12127: 1998 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement 
Average 293.3 g/m2280 g/m2(+/-5%)

11. Fiber Analysis 

Test Method: ISO 1833:2006 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result  Client Requirement
Identification of fibers Cotton + Polyester -3% to +3%
Analyzed fibers Cotton 60.2% 60% Cotton 
 Polyester 39.8% 40% Polyester
Note: Based On Moisture Regain Value According To Regulation ( EU ) No 1007/2011   

Comments and solusion:

CVC 60%+40% French Terry Fabric and Its development is a great development. During that development We face some problems and soluting the parameter:

Colorfastness to washing fails: To solve this problem we need extra soaping. After cotton part dyeing the processes will be followed to solve this problem are given below step by step:

soaping agent injects

The temperature at 95 degree

Run time 10min

Wash clear

2nd time soaping agent injects

Rise temperature at 90 degree

Run time 10min

Wash until the water is clear

Fixing agent dosing 5min

Runtime 10min

wash clear

softener and unload

Fastness to perspiration fail: The process is given above will solve this problem also.

Fastness to hot press fails: For this, we have to use the dyestuff which has the capability to solve this problem. So need to talk with the dye supplier.

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