Practical Textile Double pique knit fabric is a special type of fabric. Its Dyeing and finishing process is also special in the present world. The dyeing finishing process and its flow chart are unique from other fabrics. Recently I developed a 100% cotton pique knit fabric and I am sharing here my experience with all the process parameters. Here also stated the testing process and actual data of my development according to different ISO testing methods.
Double Pique knit fabrics are made of thick single yarns that create a diamond pattern when knitted. The double pique pattern is created by knitting two stitches together and then knitting another stitch in the next hole. This creates a tighter knit than regular pique and creates a more dense and strong fabric with texture to it. Double pique fabrics generally have a thick woven appearance and can be used for many home projects such as kitchen aprons, tablecloths, and placemats.
Target Parameter Double Pique Fabric
| Buyer | Celio |
| fabric Type | 100 % Cotton |
| Composition | 100 % cotton |
| Color Name | As swatch |
| Shade% | 5.38 |
| Required Dia | |
| Required GSM | 250 |
| Special Note |
Yarn Information
| Yarn count and Type | 22/1 cotton |
| Yarn composition | 100 % cotton |
| Yarn lot | 307/ 21 |
| Yarn Brand | Blank |
Knitting Parameter
| Machine Dia and Gauge | 25*24 G |
| Total needle | 1884 |
| Stitch length | 29 |
| Machine No | 40 |
| Machine Brand | Fukuyama |
| Machine RPM | 10 |
| Grey Width | 176 Cm (open) |
| Grey GSM | |
| Gray Wash | |
| Gray Wash GSM |
Dyeing Flow Chart:
Dyeing recipe :
| Buying House : | Practical Textile |
| Buyer : | Practical Textile |
| Order No : | 01 |
| Machine No : | |
| Type of fabric : | s/j CTN |
| Sro No : |
| Date : | 1.01.22 |
| Batch No : | 0000 |
| Shade/Color : | Any |
| Quantity : | 50 Kg |
| L.:R. : | |
| Total Water : | 400 Lt |
| REQUISITION FO DYESTUFF & CHEMICALS |
| SL# | Name of the chemicals | G/Liter | % | Req’d Qty. In Kg | Issues Qty. | Remarks |
| Pretreatment : | ||||||
| 1 | ||||||
| 2 | Detergent | 0.80 | 0.240 | |||
| 3 | Anticrese | 2.00 | 0.600 | |||
| 4 | Caustic | 2.00 | 0.600 | |||
| 5 | H2O2 | 2.50 | 0.750 | |||
| 6 | ||||||
| 7 | ||||||
| Peroxide killer | 0.15 | 0.045 | ||||
| 8 | Acitic Acid | 1.00 | 0.300 | |||
| 9 | ||||||
| 10 | ||||||
| 11 | ||||||
| 12 | ||||||
| Dyeing : | ||||||
| 13 | Leveling agent | 1.00 | 0.300 | |||
| 14 | Anticreseing agent | 2.00 | 0.600 | |||
| 15 | ||||||
| 16 | Color: red | 1.026% | 0.513 gm | |||
| 17 | Color : red | 1.188 % | 0.59 gm 400 mg | |||
| 18 | Color: Blue | 2.2 % | 1 kg 100 gm | |||
| 19 | ||||||
| 20 | Gluber Salt | 70.00 | 28,000 kg | |||
| 21 | Soda Ash Lt | 15.00 | 6,000 kg | |||
| After Treatment : | ||||||
| 22 | Soaping agent | 0.80 | 0.240 | |||
| 23 | anticreseing agent | 0.50 | 0.150 | |||
| 24 | ||||||
| 25 | Fixer | 1.00 | 0.300 | |||
| 26 | ||||||
| 27 | Softener | 2.00 | 0.600 |
Dyeing process:
Loading
Detergent+ anticreaseing agent injects
Temperature rise 50 degree
Caustic dossing 5 min
rise the temperature to 70 degrees
Hydrogen Peroxide inject
Rise the temperature to 98 degree
run for 60min
cooling and drying
normal hot
peroxide killer injects
acid for neutralization
enzyme
wash then leveling
Temperature 60c
Leveling dosing 3 minute
Runtime 10 minute
Color dosing 25 minutes (Linear)
Runtime 10 minute
1st Salt dosing 10 minute
Runtime 10 minute
2nd salt dosing 10 minute
Runtime 10 minute
Sample check
1st Soda dosing (1g/l) 25 minute
Runtime 10 minute
2nd soda dosing 10 minute
Runtime 10 minute
Sample check
If shade ok then
soaping
softener
Actual Dyeing procedure Steps image which I did practically
Double Pique knit fabric finishing flow chart:
Slitting Parameter:
| Machine Speed | 40 |
| Padder pressure | 1.5 kg |
| Over Feed | Blank |
| Fabric In Diameter | 25 |
| Fabric Out Diameter | 170 |
Stanter/Dryer
| Name | Heat Set | Dry Time |
| Width set | 170 | |
| Over Feed | 59 % | |
| Temperature | 120 | |
| RPM/ Speed | 13 | |
| Pedder Pressure | 312 | |
| Vibration | biank | |
| Softener Type | Cationic | |
| After Dry Width | 170 -165 | B dia= 170-163 |
| After Dry GSM | 250-210 | B. gsm=250-220 |
Stenter/Compacting
| Stanter /Dryer | Compacting | ||
| Width set | 140 | ||
| Over Feed | 59% | Temperature | 120 |
| Temperature | 120 | Steam Pressure | 30 |
| RPM/ Speed | 13 | Width set | 170 |
| Padder Pressure | 312 | Over feed% | 35% |
| Vibration | blank | RPM/Speed | 12 |
| Softener Type | Cationic | Compaction% | blank |
| After Dry Width | 170-165 | After Width | 170 -163 |
| After Dry GSM | 250-210 | After GSM | 250-220 |
| Wash gsm | 250 |
Shrinkage:
Length=
Width=
SP%=
Test Report:
Final width= 130 f145 Final GSM=270 f 265
Shrinkage with tumble dry:
Length= -5%
Width=-5 %
SP%=2%
Shrinkage of line dry:
Length=-1.2%
Width=+2.8%
SP%=2%
Testing of Double pique knit fabric with ISO method:
The conclusion of the test methods
| Sl. No. | Test Name | Results (A) |
| 01 | Dimensional Stability to washing | Pass |
| 02 | Angular Variation After Washing | Pass |
| 03 | Pilling Resistance (ICI BOX Method) | Pass |
| 04 | Mass per unit area | Pass |
01. Dimensional Stability To Washing
Test Method: NF EN ISO 5077/6330/3759
Wash Condition: Normal Program, Machine wash @40ºC, Line dry, Used Front loading washing Machine Wascator with 15.4gm ECE reference Detergent, 4gm Sodium Per borate, and 0.65gm TAED Solution With 2.0 Kg Load.
| Sample (A) | After Three Wash | |
| Direction | Result | Client Requirement |
| Length | -1.2% | ±5% |
| Width | +2.8% |
Remark: (+) Means Extension And (-) Means Shrinkage
02. Angular Variation After Washing
Test Method: ISO16322-1: 2005
Wash Condition: Normal Program, Machine wash @40ºC, Line dry, Used Front loading washing Machine Wascator with 15.4gm ECE reference Detergent, 4gm Sodium Per borate, and 0.65gm TAED Solution With 2.0 Kg Load.
| Sample (A) | Result (After Three Wash) | Client Requirement |
| Spirality | 0.0% | 5% |
03. Resistance Of Pilling (ICI BOX Method)
Test Method: NF EN ISO 12945-1:2020
Wash Condition: After Three Wash (ISO 6330, Normal Program@40ºC, Line dry)
| Sample (A) | Result | Client Requirement |
| After 14, 400 Cycle, 4hrs | ||
| Grade | 4 | 4 |
| Note: Fuzzy Effects were observed |
04. Mass Per Unit Area
Test Method: NF EN ISO 3801: 1977, method 5
Test Stage: As Received Stage
| Sample (A) | Result | Client Requirement |
| Average | 273.5 g/m2 | 280 g/m2 (±5%) |
Conclusion:
I discussed the 100% Cotton Double Pique Knit Fabric Dyeing And Finishing Development which I did recently. All the parameters and processes are actual. Anyone can apply the parameter. Any confusion comments me. I will give the solution.
Research Links:
- Piqué (weaving) – Wikipedia
- Cotton | Description, History, Production, Uses, Botanical Name, & Facts | Britannica
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