How to Hem Jeans with a Sewing Machine: Original Hem and Classic Hem Methods

Before you start: measure correctly

A good hem starts with a good measurement. Put the jeans on with the shoes you will wear most often, stand straight and fold the hem under until it sits where you want. Most people like the back of the hem to sit about 1 to 2 cm above the floor in flat shoes. Pin or clip both legs, because legs are often slightly different lengths, then take the jeans off and measure the inseam from the crotch seam to the fold.

Our guide to the sewing machine needle for jeans explains needle sizes and points in more detail.

Method 1: Keep the original hem

This method keeps the factory hem with its worn, faded edge, so the jeans look as if they were made to your length. It is also faster, because you never sew a new topstitched hem.

Working out the fold

Suppose your jeans have a 34-inch inseam and you want 31 inches. You need to remove 3 inches, so you fold the hem up 1.5 inches (half the amount), because the fold is doubled. Measure from the bottom of the original hem to the fold all the way round so it is even.

Sewing tips

• Use the free arm of your machine so you can sew around the leg tube.
• Use a zipper foot or the edge of a regular foot to stitch close to the original hem band without stitching over it.
• Match the thread colour to the denim, since this line will be hidden when the hem is folded down.
• Press hard with steam; the fold will relax after the first wash.

Method 2: The classic double-fold hem

Use this method for raw, dark or wide-leg jeans, or when the original hem is damaged.

1. Mark and cut: mark the finished length with chalk, then add about 3 cm (1 1/4 in) and cut straight across.
2. First fold: fold 1.5 cm to the inside and press firmly.
3. Second fold: fold another 1.5 cm, enclosing the raw edge, press and clip.
4. Flatten the side seams: tap the bulky seam areas with a hammer, protected by a cloth, to compress the layers.
5. Topstitch: stitch about 1 cm from the bottom fold, from the inside of the leg or the outside, with topstitch thread and a 3 to 3.5 mm stitch.
6. Climb the seams slowly: place a hump jumper or folded denim behind the foot as you approach the seam so the foot stays level, then move it to the front as you come down.
7. Finish: pull thread tails to the inside, knot them and press.

Denim seams can stack up to six or more layers at the hem. Our guide to the sewing machine needle for thick fabric helps if your machine struggles.

Method 3: Raw or frayed hem

For a casual look, cut at the finished length and stitch a straight line about 1 to 2 cm above the cut edge with matching thread. Wash and dry the jeans; the edge frays up to the stitching line and stops there.

Hemming different jeans styles

• Skinny and stretch jeans: use a slightly longer straight stitch or a narrow zigzag so the hem can stretch with the leg, and avoid pulling the fabric while sewing.
• Straight and slim: the original-hem method gives the best result.
• Bootcut and flares: measure with the shoes you will wear; a classic hem is easier because the leg widens toward the hem.
• Wide-leg and cropped styles: press carefully so the hem hangs straight, and check both legs on the body before topstitching.
• Kids’ jeans: fold up a deep hem and stitch it lightly so it can be let down as they grow.

How much break do you want?

Break is the fold that forms where the jeans meet your shoes. No break means the hem just touches the top of the shoe, a clean look for slim and cropped styles. Slight break gives a small fold at the front and is the most versatile. Full break means a deeper fold, common with bootcut jeans and boots. Decide this before you pin, because it changes the length by 1 to 3 cm.

Hemming by hand

No machine? A small backstitch with strong polyester thread works for the original-hem method, because the stitching is hidden under the fold. Take short stitches through all layers, keep them even, and knot securely at each side seam.

Troubleshooting thick denim seams

Heavy-duty home machines handle denim more comfortably; we discuss real limits in our Singer Heavy Duty 4423 review. Even so, a sharp needle and slow, steady sewing matter more than motor power.

No machine? A temporary fix

Iron-on hemming tape holds a folded hem in lighter denim until you can sew it. It may loosen after repeated hot washes, so treat it as temporary. See our picks of the best fabric tape for hemming.

Finishing touches for a factory look

• Use gold, tan or matching topstitch thread depending on the original stitching.
• Set a slightly longer stitch, about 3.5 mm, for topstitching.
• Steam the hem flat and let it cool before trying the jeans on.
• Wash once to relax new stitching and make the hem look naturally worn.

Frequently asked questions