Tencel Cotton Blend Fabric Knitting And Dyeing With A Practical Experiment Full Data 2021

Great || Cotton is a cellulose fiber and Tencel is regenerated cellulose fiber. So Tencel cotton blend fabric is cellulosic. So that the characteristics of these two fibers are a little bit similar. This fabric is specially designed for undergarments sportswear with better comfort.

Basic properties of cotton:

  • Absorbent
  • Non toxic
  • Biodegradable
  • Cellulosic fiber
  • Sustainable fiber

Basic properties of Tencel:

  • Longer lasting softness
  • Lusters
  • Shiny
  • Biodegradable
  • More strength

So that the cotton Tencel blend fabric is chosen to get both properties.

Tencel cotton blend fabric
Final Fabric photograph of the experient

Cotton Tencel blend fabric knitting practical example:

Here I am sharing one of the knitting dyeing processes with all documents that I did at the factory level. If you use this parameter at the factory level, you will get the same result. Let’s enjoy…..

Target parameter:

Fabric typeSingle Jersey
Composition50% cotton +50% Eco pure Tencel
Color Name /PantoneRaw Shade
Shade %0.015
Repaired  Diameter150 CM (Open)
Required GSM180
Special NoteThe special fabric needs special care

Estimated target process flow chart of cotton Tencel blend fabric:

Knitting of cotton Tencel blend fabric:

The full knitting process of cotton Tencel blend fabric are discussing below

Imported Yarn Parameter:

We imported yarn from a reputed company for this cotton Tencel blend fabric. I am sharing the below parameter.

Yarn count and Type24 S/1  single jerky
Yarn Composition50% cotton+ 50% Tencel
Yarn CompositionNot to be share
Yarn BrandNot to be share

Knitting setting Parameter:

The setting parameter of knitting to get our target fabric is the below table.

Machine Dia and Gauge28 & 24
Total Needle2112
Stitch length28.5
Machine BrandFukuhara
Machine RPM20

The parameter after Knitting of cotton Tencel blends fabric:

After completing knitting we get the fabric parameter are stated below table.

Grey fabric width196 cm (Open)
Gray GSM166

Dyeing of Tencel and cotton blend fabric:

Here we have completed knitting. Now we have the dye the fabric. We discussing below all the flow processes of dyeing which we did for this batch.

Flow Chart of dyeing:

cotton Tencel bled fabric dyeing flow chart

Short description of process flowchart of cotton Tencel blend:

I am giving here a short description for a better understanding of all the processes.

Batching:

Knitted fabrics are collected here to create a batch. Batch means the prepared fabric to dyeable format. Knitting done roll to roll. Here fabric creates a rope according to the loading capacity of the dyeing machine. A batch card is also created for storing all the knitting and dyeing process parameters.

Loading to dyeing machine:

It is the 2nd step of the dyeing process. Lubricant is injected into the machine for avoiding friction between the machine and the fabric surface. Cycle time, Pump pressure, Reel speed, Nozzle pressure setting is done here.

Scouring and Bleaching:

Normally scouring and bleaching are two different processes in oven fabric. But for knitting fabric, is done in the same batch. For cotton, Tencel blends fabric special multifunctional scouring agent, soda ash light, and hydrogen peroxide used for scouring and bleaching here. But when we dye only the cotton fabric, we use only caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide.

Dyeing:

A special dyeing process is followed for Tencel cotton blend fabric. This is one of the best sensitive fabrics. So that it needs special care to get better results. On the other hand dyeing faults can occur. This is why we use a long dyeing process. The result of this fabric dyeing process is good to use. I am personally using this process in by factory for better result.

After-treatment:

In this stage, neutralization is done. Then the unfixed dyes are removed by a soaping agent. Better or high-temperature soaping will give you better fastness property. But here the dye shade% is low. So that no need to high soaping. Here core neutralizer is used to get better results. But we can also use only acetic acid for naturalization.

Bio Polishing:

Normally bio polishing is done after the scouring and bleaching state. But Tencel fiber is friction sensitive. So that after dyeing and soaping it creates excessive hairiness on the surface of the fabric. This is why bio polishing is done when all process is complete.

It also noted that after bio polishing the will be 4-5% darker than previous. Because the surface will be clean and smooth and showing an extra glossy effect.

Special note: Here softener is not used because it creates a white spot on the surface. Especially for dark colors. We have to use a softener during the center bath.

Dyeing Recipe:

Here I gave the chemical agent name. Because I am not sharing the original brand name.

Chemical NameG/L
Detergent2.00  
Anti-creasing agent2.00
Sequestering agent1.00
Multifunctional scouring agent2.00
Soda Ash Lt2.00
H2O21.00
  
Peroxide killer0.15
Acid (Neutralizing)0.7
  
  
Leveling agent2.00
Anti-creasing agent2.00
Sequestering agent0.5
Liyuansol yellow BLF0.0074%
Liyuansol Red BLF0.0014%
Liyuansol Blue BLF0.007%
  
Salt 10
Soda Ash Lt 4
Acid (Neutralizing) 0.8
Soaping Agent0.80
Anti-creasing agent1.00
Leveling agent2.00
  
Core Neutralizer0.70
Enzyme L25001.00

Dyeing process cotton Tencel blend step by step:

Batch quantity   : 25kg

Dyeing Type        : Reactive dyeing

M:L                       :1:10

Enzyme Type       : Acid Enzyme

Special Note         : Care full about the process. Enzyme/ Bio polishing after dyeing.

Scouring & Bleaching

Detergent + Anti-creasing agent = Inject

Temp 40c*= Fabric Load

Soda Ash Lt Dosing

Temperature 60c*20 Minute

Temperature 70c

Sequestering agent + H2O2 Dosing 5 Minute

Runtime 70c*40 Minute

Drain

Normal Hot 70*10

Acid 60*10 Minute

Dyeing

Leveling PH check 6.20

Leveling Dosing 60c 3 Minute

Color Dosing 25 Mints 70%

Runtime 10 mint

Color dosing 20 minute

Runtime 10

1st 10% Salt Dosing 10 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

2nd 20% Salt dosing 10 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

3rd 70% Salt Dossing 10 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

Salt Sample check + Fabric Quality Check

1st 10% Soda dosing 15 minute

Runtime 10 minute

2nd 20% Soda dosing 15 minute

Runtime 10 minute

3rd 70% Soda dosing 15 minute

Runtime 10 minute

Sample check If ok then

Bath Drop

After Treatment

Soaping

Hot wash

Core neutralizer

Soaping

Bio polishing

 Enzyme (Enzyme due to create heavy hairy of Tencel fabric)

Unload

Finishing Process of cotton tencil blend fabric:

Now we completed dyeing this fabric. Now we discuss the finishing process and parameter step by step below:

Finishing flow chart:

finishion process of cotton tencil blend fabric.

Short Description of the flow process stages for better understanding:

Slitting:

After knitting the fabric we get it as a tube format fabric. But we have to use an open stenter and compacting machine to get a better result. So that the fabric needs to open. This is why we use this machine to open this fabric.

Stenter:

We dry the fabric and control the dia, GSM, and shrinkage.  For this, we need to appropriate setting. I am giving the setting which I did for this batch

Setting parameter :

Stenter Parameter
SettingSpeed 20
Dia 152
Tem 130
Overfeed 50
After StenterDia 143
GSM 175
ShrinkageLength 
Width 
Spirality 

Compacting:

Full dia, gsm, and shrinkage are controlled here. Better appearance and looking are done here. The overall quality of dyeing is control here.

I am giving the parameter which I did for the subjective batch.

Compacting Parameter
SettingOverfeed35% 
 Speed16
TopicTargetBeforesettingafter
Dia 150 143 150 142
Gsm 180 170  175
Shrinkage
 Tumble dryLength-4% 
Width-2% 
Spirality2% 

Now the fabric is sent to the testing lab for all the test reports.

Testing of cotton Tencel blend fabric:

How many Tests will be done on the fabric depends on the buyer’s requirement. This batch is done for development so that the basic testing is done here. We did the test…

  1. Dimensional change in washing
  2. Spirality after washing.
  3. Busting Strength
  4. Pilling Resistance
  5. Mass Per Unit Area
  6. Fiber Analysis

Conclusion of Test Results:

Sl. No. Test Name Results 
01 Dimensional Change in Washing Pass
02 Spirality After Washing Pass
03 Bursting Strength Pass
04 Pilling Resistance Pass
05 Mass Per Unit Area Pass
06 Fiber Analysis See the test results

All the test reports are stated one by one for this cotton Tencel blend fabric:

01. Dimensional Change in Washing 

Test Method : ISO 5077+ ISO 3759+ ISO 6330: 2012 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine Wash@40°C, Line Dry, Used domestic washing machine Miele, 25 gram Ariel Reference  Detergent with 3.5kg load. 

Sample (A) After One Wash
Direction Result Client Requirement
Length -4.6% ±7% 
Width -4.6%

Remark: (+) Means Extension And (-) Means Shrinkage 

02. Spirality After Washing 

Test Method: ISO 16322-3: 2005 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine Wash@40°C, Line Dry, Used domestic washing machine Miele, 25 gram Ariel Reference  Detergent with 3.5kg load. 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Spirality 4.0% Max 4%

03. Bursting Strength 

Test Method: ISO 13938-2:2019, used 50 cm2 dia 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Average 197.8 kPa 100 kPa

04. Resistance Of Pilling (ICI Box Method) 

Test Method: EN ISO 12945-1:2020 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
After 10800 Cycle Length Direction Width Direction
Grade 3
Note: Fuzzy effects are observed

 Visual Assessment  

Grade Description
No Change
Slight Surface fuzzing and/or partially formed pills.
Moderate surface fuzzing and/or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering the specimen surface.
Distinct surface fuzzing and/or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering a large proportion of the  specimen surface.
Dense surface fuzzing and/or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering the whole of the specimen  surface.

5 Mass Per Unit Area 

Test Method: EN 12127: 1998 

Test Stage: As Received Stage

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement 
Average 175.4 g/m2180 g/m2(±5%)

6 Fiber Analysis 

Test Method: ISO 1833:2006 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Identification of fibers Cotton+ tencil
Analyzed fibers Cotton 48.6%
Tencil51.4%
Fiber Label Recommended 49% Cotton 51% tencil
Note: Based On Moisture Regain Value According To Regulation

Conclusion or my comments:

This experiment is the special experiment ever. All the settled parameters are already discussed. Now we will state the findings during the experiment:

  • Need special care to set knitting parameter to get better result.
  • Dia, GSM, Shrinkage report are good. So that we can follow this knitting parameter for bulk plan.
  • We have to use the actual dyeing process for the cotton tencil blend fabric dyeing process.

I have Researched from some link:

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