What Is Suede? How It Is Made, Suede vs Nubuck and How to Care for It

Contents12 sections

1. What exactly is suede?
2. How suede is made
3. Suede vs nubuck vs smooth leather
4. Types of suede by animal
5. Suede vs smooth leather: which should you buy?
6. Real suede vs faux suede and microsuede
7. How to protect suede before you wear it
8. How to clean suede
9. Can you dye suede?
10. Suede in rain and snow
11. Storing suede
12. Frequently asked questions

What exactly is suede?

Suede is a type of leather with a soft, fuzzy surface known as a nap. Smooth leather shows the tight outer grain of the hide, while suede shows the looser fibres from the inside. Tanneries often split thick hides into layers; the lower layer, called a split, has no grain at all and is ideal for suede. Thin skins such as lamb and goat can also be finished on the flesh side directly. The surface is then buffed so the fibres stand up and feel velvety.

The name comes from the French phrase gants de Suede, meaning gloves from Sweden, where soft napped leather gloves were popular in the 1800s.

How suede is made

1. Preparation: hair is removed, the hide is cleaned and the fleshy layer is trimmed.
2. Tanning: most suede is chrome tanned, which makes it soft, stable and easy to dye.
3. Splitting: thick hides are split into a grain layer and one or more lower layers. The lower split becomes suede.
4. Dyeing and fat-liquoring: the leather is drum dyed through and oiled to stay supple.
5. Buffing: abrasive rollers raise and even out the nap.
6. Finishing: some suede gets a water- or stain-repellent treatment before cutting.

Suede vs nubuck vs smooth leather

Nubuck is often confused with suede. Both have a nap, but nubuck is sanded on the outer grain side, which is the strongest part of the hide. That makes nubuck tougher, finer and usually more expensive. Smooth leather keeps the grain intact, so it resists water and stains best of all.

SuedevsNubuck

Side of hide

Suede: Inner flesh side or a split layer

Nubuck: Outer grain side, lightly sanded

Look

Suede: Longer, softer nap, more texture

Nubuck: Very short, fine nap like velvet

Strength

Suede: Thinner and weaker

Nubuck: Stronger and more durable

Water and stain resistance

Suede: Low, marks easily

Nubuck: Low to moderate, still needs protecting

Typical uses

Suede: Fashion jackets, loafers, bags, gloves

Nubuck: Boots, sneakers, premium bags

Price

Suede: Usually lower

Nubuck: Usually higher

Both are napped leathers; the difference is which side of the hide is buffed.

Types of suede by animal

• Lambskin suede: the softest and lightest, with a fine, velvety nap; used for jackets, gloves and fine bags. Also the most delicate.
• Goat (kid) suede: soft but a little tougher than lamb, with a slightly more textured nap; used in shoes and gloves.
• Pigskin suede: durable and affordable, with visible groups of small dots where the bristles grew; common in casual shoes and linings.
• Calf suede: dense, smooth and even; used in quality shoes and bags.
• Cow split suede: thicker and rougher, used for work gloves, boots, aprons and upholstery.

Suede vs smooth leather: which should you buy?

Choose suede when softness, comfort and a casual, matte look matter more than toughness: driving loafers, desert boots, spring jackets, bags you will carry in dry weather. Choose smooth leather for daily commuting shoes, rainy climates, work bags and anything that must resist scuffs and spills. Suede can last for many years, but it asks for more care, and its nap will always show where it has been used most.

Real suede vs faux suede and microsuede

Faux suede, also sold as microsuede or suedette, is a polyester microfibre fabric with a brushed surface. Some premium versions combine very fine polyester fibres with a polyurethane binder in a non-woven structure for a very convincing suede feel. Faux suede is cheaper, consistent, stain resistant and often washable, which makes it popular for sofas, car interiors and fashion basics. Real suede breathes better, moulds to your feet and hands, and ages more gracefully.

How to protect suede before you wear it

A breathable protector spray makes the biggest difference. Brush the item first, spray evenly from about 15 to 20 cm in light coats, let it dry fully, then brush the nap back up. Repeat every few weeks in wet seasons. We compared options in our guide to the best suede protector for jackets.

How to clean suede

Work on dry suede, start with the gentlest method and test in a hidden spot.

ProblemLikely causeFix

Water spotsUneven drying left a tide markDampen the whole panel evenly with a sponge, stuff, air-dry, then brush

Flattened shiny patchesNap crushed by pressure and rubbingBrush against the nap; hold over steam briefly, then brush again

Oil or greaseFood, hand cream or body oilCover with cornstarch or talc for several hours, brush off, repeat

Dry dirt and scuffsEveryday wearSuede brush first, then a suede eraser on stubborn marks

White salt linesWinter road salt on shoesDab with a little diluted white vinegar, let dry, brush

Always test a hidden spot first and work with the suede completely dry unless noted.

• Brush in one direction to lift dirt, then in different directions to restore the nap.
• Use a suede eraser or a clean pencil eraser for marks the brush misses.
• Never use hot water, a hairdryer or a radiator to dry suede; heat makes it stiff and brittle.
• For large stains, valuable jackets or coloured suede, use a professional leather cleaner.

Can you dye suede?

Yes, suede can be re-dyed or refreshed, usually with alcohol- or solvent-based suede dyes that penetrate the nap without leaving a stiff film. Clean and brush the suede first, apply thin even coats with a wool dauber, let it dry fully and brush the nap up again between coats. Going darker works far better than going lighter. Our guides to the best dye for suede shoes and Angelus suede dyes cover products and technique.

Suede in rain and snow

• Spray a protector before wet weather, not after the first stain.
• If suede gets wet, blot it, stuff it with paper and let it dry slowly at room temperature.
• Brush the nap once it is completely dry; it usually recovers.
• Treat salt lines promptly before they harden into the leather.

Storing suede

• Hang jackets on wide hangers in breathable cotton garment bags, not plastic.
• Stuff shoes and bags with acid-free paper to hold their shape.
• Keep suede out of direct sunlight, which fades the colour unevenly.
• Give it space in the wardrobe; crushing flattens the nap.

Comparing suede with other materials for a project? See our fabric types and specifications guide.

Frequently asked questions