75% Viscose Ponte Roma Fabric

Ponte Roma fabric can also be called Ponte Di Roma fabric. It is nothing but double knit jersey fabric. This is why it is also called Ponte jersey fabric. It can be manufactured by the combination of polyester rayon/viscose and spandex. My topic for viscose Ponte Roma fabric. It is a special development in the world. Ponte Roma fabric is more stable and both sides same looking fabric. It is a special stretchy and comfortable fabric. It is also a more stable fabric.

ponte roma fabric

Viscose Ponte Roma Fabric Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing and Testing parameter with practical and technical documentation

Here I am sharing my most recent experience which I did. I am explaining all the required parameters of knitting dyeing finishing and testing of viscose Ponte Roma fabric.

Target Parameter:

Fabric typePonte Roma/ Ponte di roma
Composition75% viscose+22%polyester+3%elas
Color Name /PantoneYellow
Shade %1.5% 
Repaired  Diameter180 
Required GSM350-370 
Special NoteSpecial fabric needs special care

Estimated target process flow chart of Viscose Ponte Roma Fabric:

Ponte Rome fabric process flow chart

Imported yarn parameter:

We imported yarn from a reputed company for this cotton tencil blend fabric. I am sharing the below parameter.

Yarn count and Type26 S/1 viscose Vortex+75D AC Polyester
Yarn Composition75% viscose+22%polyester+3%elas
Yarn BrandA Reported Company

Knitting setting Parameter of Ponte Roma Fabric:

The setting parameter of knitting to get our target fabric are in below table.

Machine Dia and Gauge36 & 18G
Total Needle3680
Stitch length28.5+25.0
Machine BrandOrizio
Machine RPM12

The parameter after Knitting of viscose Ponte Roma fabric:

After completing knitting we get the fabric parameter are states below table.

Grey fabric width (Dia)206 cm open
Gray GSM320

Dyeing of Ponte Roma fabric with disperse and reactive dyes:

Here we have completed knitting of this Ponte Roma fabric.  Now we have the dye the fabric. We discussing below all the flow processes of dyeing which we did for this batch.

Dyeing of viscose Ponte Roma Fabric flow Chart:

Short description of viscose ponte roma fabric dyeing process flow chart:

I am giving here a short description for a better understanding of all the processes.

Batching:

Knitted fabric is collected from the knitting gray store and created a batch here. Batch means the prepare fabric to dyeable format. Knitting is done in roll to roll. Here fabric creates a rope according to the loading capacity of the dyeing machine. A batch card is also created for storing all the knitting and dyeing process parameters.

Heat Setting for this special Ponte Roma fabric:

Heat setting is the process of a stenter machine to control the dimensional stability of the fabric. This process is added to control the mechanical deformation of a knitted fabric like crease mark, long mark, Fabric side twisting, etc.  This process is no need for all the fabric. It is not possible to state all the fabric types. I am giving only some of the fabric which is in my mind right now.

Heat set  is done for the fabric which is given below table:

Fabric  TypeGSM Range
Elastane / lycra fabricAll gsm fabric
Single jersey fabric 180 and above
Fleece / terry350 and above
100% polyester fabric/ PC fabricAll gsm fabric
Special constructional fabricAll gsm fabric( Depends on target swatch)
All types of CVC fabricAll GSM (Which need polyester part dyeing)
Tightly knitted fabricAll Gsm fabric
  

Setting parameter of this special viscose Ponte Roma fabric and result:

Temperature      : 195’C

Over feed            : 35%

Machine speed   : 18

Padder pressure :  1st padder- 3, 2nd padder- 2

Ist batch liquid    :  Lubricant & oil remover

2nd Batch Liquid  :  Lubricant

Before GSM         :  335

After  GSM           : 325

Setting parameter nameBefore heat setSetting In stenter machineAfter heat set
Fabric diameter174185180
    

Loading to dyeing machine:

It is the 4th step of the dyeing process. Lubricant is injected into the machine for avoiding friction between the machine and the fabric surface. Then load the fabric. Cycle time, Pump pressure, Reel speed, Nozzle pressure setting is controlled here. Then rise the temperature to 80’c and run 10min. Drain and wash.

Polyester part dyeing of the Ponte Roma fabric with disperse dyes:

Control the PH 4.5 then raise the temperature to 130’c and run 45min. Cooling and drain if the shade is ok.

Reduction Cleaning:

The unfixed disperse dyes are removed from the surface of the fabric. The unfixed dyes means the dyes which are not completely fixed with the fabric. It improves the fastness properties of the fabric.

Scouring and Bleaching:

Normally scouring and bleaching are two different processes in oven fabric. But for knitting fabric, is done in the same batch. For dyeing of Ponte Roma fabric we use soda ash light, multifunctional scouring agent, and hydrogen peroxide a little bit used to scouring and bleaching here.

Dyeing:

A Reactive dyeing process is used here. This is one of the best sensitive fabric (viscose polyester and accryclic).  So that it needs special care to get better result. This is why we use a perfect  dyeing process. The result of this fabric dyeing process is good to use. I am personally use this process in my factory  for better result.

After-treatment:

In this stage, neutralization is done. Then the unfixed dyes are removed by a soaping agent. Better or high-temperature soaping will give you better fastness property. But here the dye shade% is low. So that no need to high soaping. Here core neutralizer is used to get better results. But we can also use only ascitic acid for naturalization.

Special note For dyeing of Ponte Roma fabric : 

Over sure about the PH of dye bath during disperse dyes and other stages, Need proper heat setting. Lubricant must have to inject before loading the fabric. The cycle time range will be 2min-3min (Not below 2min).

Dyeing process 100% cotton fabric step by step:

Color Name        : As Swatch(Yellow)

Batch quantity   : 10kg

Dyeing Type        : Disperse and reactive dyeing

M:L                       : 1: 10

Enzyme Type       : No

Cycle Time           : 2.5 min

Special Note :  Care full about PH and the process

Polyester Part Dyeing

Oxalic acid and antecreasing agent hot 80’c temperature

Run 10min

Drain and fill

Control Ph 4.5

Levelling of disperse dyeing and Antecreaseing agent inject

Run 10min

Rise temperature 80’c

Color(disperse dyes) dossing 30min

Run 10min

Rise temperature 130’c Grade 0.5

Run 45min

Cooling at 80’c  Grade 0.5

Check the shade

If ok drain the dye batch

Reduction Cleaning

Dossing the soda ash lt for 10min

then rise the temperature at 80’c

rise the chemical tank temperature 80’c also

inject the hydrose

rise the temperature 95’c

run 15min

cooling at 80’c

drain

Scouring & Bleaching

Detergent + Anti-creasing agent = Inject

Temp 40c*= Fabric Load

Soda ash light  Dosing

Temperature 60c*20 Minute

Temperature 70c

Sequestering agent + H2O2 Dosing 5 Minute

Temp to  95’C & run 50 Minute

Cooling at 78’C

Sample check

If sample ok then Drain

Normal Hot 70*10

Peroxide killer  60*10 Minute

Drain

Nautralization with acid

Drain

Wash 10 min

Dyeing Viscose part

Levelling Ph check 6.20

Levelling Dosing 60c 3 Minite

Color Dosing 25 Minite

Runtime 10 minute

1st 10% Salt Dosing 15 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

2nd 20% Salt dosing 15 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

3rd 70% Salt Dosnig 15 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

Salt Sample check

1st 10% Soda dosing 15 minute

Runtime 10 minute

90% Soda dosing 25 minute

Runtime 10 minute

Sample check

BD

Hot wash

Acid

Unload

Finishing Process of viscose ponte roma fabric:

Now we completed dyeing of this fabric. Now we discussing the finishing process and parameter step by step below:

Finishing flow chart of nylon fabric:

Short Descripting of the flow process stages for better understanding:

Slitting:

After dyeing the fabric we get it as a tube format fabric. But we have to use an open stenter and compacting machine to get a better results. So that the fabric needs to open. This is why we use this machine to open this fabric.

Setting parameter And result:

Machine speed40
Padder Pressure1.5
Fabric In Diameter36 Cm (Tube)
Fabric Out Diameter170 Cm ( open)

Stenter:

We dry the fabric and control the diameter, GSM and shrinkage.  For this we need to appropriate  setting. I am giving the setting which I done for this batch

Setting parameter of stenter:

Speed16
Diameter180
Temperature120’C
Overfeed50%
Padder pressure3+2
After stenter 
Fabric diameter170
GSM350
Stenter Parameter  
SettingSpeed 16
 Dia170
 Tem120
 Overfeed 50%
 Padder Pressue3+2
After StenterDia170
 GSM350
ShrinkageLength 
 Width 
Spirality  

Compacting:

Compacting Parameter    
Common SettingOverfeed30%   
 Speed/RPM14  
 Temp120  
 Steam Pressure30  
TopicTargetBeforesettingafter
Dia 150170 170170
Gsm180 350 360
Shrinkage    
 Tumble dryLength-11%   
 Width+6%   
 Spiralinity2%  
Line dryLength-10%  
 width8.20%  
Spirality 0.0%   

Full dia, gsm, and shrinkage are controlled here. Better appearance and looking are done here. The overall quality of dyeing is controlled here.

I am giving the parameter which I did for the subjective batch.

Special Note: Wash GSM =410

All the parameters are actual which I got during the process.

Now the fabric is sent to the testing lab for all the test reports.

Comments: The control the shrinkage needs Dia 10cm – during heat setting.

The testing report of Ponte Roma Fabric:

How many Tests will be done on the fabric depending on the buyer’s requirement? This batch is done for development so that the basic testing is done here. We did the test.

FABRIC  TEST REPORT 

DATE: 16 October 2021  

Contract Person: Mr. B. K Islam

Sample Details: 

Sample Received 13 October 2021 ,Time:07:00pm
Test Period 13 October 2021 to 15 October 2021
Turn Around Time 02 Days
No of Sample Received Two (02) Meter
Sample Description & Color  NameKnitted of Ponti De Roma Fabric Sample Marked as   (A) in Color As Swatch yellow
Style Name PANT 
SR No 
Batch No 
Fabric Weight 370 GSM
Care Instruction :
Test Program Package Test
Buyer Name Practical Textile

Conclusion of Test Results: 

Sl. No. Test Name Results  (A)
01 Dimensional Change in Washing Fail
02 Spirality After Washing Pass
03 Color Fastness to Washing Pass
04 Color Fastness to Rubbing Pass
05 Color Fastness to Perspiration Pass
06 Bursting Strength Fail
07 Pilling Resistance Pass
08 Mass Per Unit Area Fail
09 Fiber Analysis Pass

TEST REPORT  with Process description of ponte roma fabric:

01. Dimensional Change in Washing 

Test Method : ISO 5077+ ISO 3759+ ISO 6330: 2012 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine Wash@40°C, Line Dry, Used domestic washing machine Wascator, 20 gram ECE  Reference Detergent with 2.0kg load. 

Sample (A) After One Wash
Direction Result Client Requirement
Length -10.0% ±5% 
Width +8.2%

Remark: (+) Means Extension And (-) Means Shrinkage 

02. Spirality After Washing 

Test Method: ISO 16322-3: 2005 

Test Condition: Normal Program, Machine Wash@40°C, Line Dry, Used domestic washing machine Wascator, 20 gram ECE  Reference Detergent with 2.0kg load. 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Spirality 0.0% Max 4%
03. Color Fastness To washing 

Test Method: ISO 105 CO6-A1S :2010 

Test Condition: Temperature at 40 degree, Time 30 min, Detergent 4g/l ECE With 10 Steel Balls 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Color Change 3-4
Color staining 3-4
-Acetate 4-5
-Cotton 4-5
-Nylon 4-5
-Polyester 4-5
-Acrylic 4-5
-Wool 4-5
04. Color Fastness To Rubbing 

Test Method: ISO 105 X12 :2016 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Dry Rub 4-5 3-4
Wet Rub 4-5 3
05. Color Fastness To Perspiration 

Test Method: ISO 105 E04:2013 

Test Condition: Temperature at 37±2 degree, Time 4 hours.

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Acid Alkaline
Color Change 4
Color staining 3-4
-Acetate 4-5 4-5
-Cotton 4-5 4-5
-Nylon 4-5 4-5
-Polyester 4-5 4-5
-Acrylic 4-5 4-5
-Wool 4-5 4-5
06. Bursting Strength 

Test Method: ISO 13938-2:2019, used 50 cm2 dia 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
Average 114.2 kPa 125 kPa
07. Resistance Of Pilling (ICI Box Method) 

Test Method: EN ISO 12945-1:2020 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement
After 10, 800 Cycle Length Direction Width Direction
Grade 3-4
Note: Fuzzy effects are observed

 Visual Assessment  

Grade Description
No Change
Slight Surface fuzzing and/or partially formed pills.
Moderate surface fuzzing and/or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering the specimen surface.
Distinct surface fuzzing and/or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering a large proportion of the  specimen surface.
Dense surface fuzzing and/or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering the whole of the specimen  surface.
08. Mass Per Unit Area 

Test Method: EN 12127: 1998 

Test Stage: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Result Client Requirement 
Average 249.8 g/m2370 g/m2(±5%)
07. Fiber Analysis 

Test Method: ISO 1833:2006 

Test Condition: As Received Stage 

Sample (A) Results Client Requirement
Identification of fibers Viscose + Elastane +3% to -3%
Analyzed fibers Viscose 98.2% 
Elastane 1.8%
Fiber Label Recommended 98% Viscose 2% Elastane 
Note: Based On Moisture Regain Value According To Regulation ( EU ) No 1007/2011

Conclusion:

I am sharing here my full Ponte Roma fabric knitting and dying process with a flow chart. A complete practical Gide line is available here. Of course, everyone can ask me any process-related question in the comment section. I will answer the entire question.  As a textile engineer, I think I can solve the problems from my 10years of practical experience.

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