What Is Hemp Fabric? How It Is Made, Hemp vs Linen vs Cotton
Hemp fabric is woven or knitted from the stalk fibres of industrial hemp. Learn how it is made, how it compares with linen and cotton, and whether it is really eco-friendly.
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What is hemp fabric?
Hemp fabric is cloth made from fibres in the stalk of the hemp plant, Cannabis sativa. The varieties grown for fibre are called industrial hemp and contain only trace amounts of THC, so they have nothing to do with marijuana in practice. Hemp is a bast fibre, like linen from flax and jute: the useful fibre sits in the outer layer of the stem, around a woody core.
Hemp is one of the oldest textile fibres people have used, for rope, sailcloth, sacks and clothing. Modern hemp fabric is used for shirts, trousers, T-shirts, workwear, bags, towels and home textiles, often blended with cotton.
Hemp fabric at a glance
- Fibre type
- Natural bast fibre from the stalk
- Feel
- Crisp and linen-like, softens with washing
- Strength
- Among the strongest natural fibres
- Breathability
- High, absorbent, cool in heat
- Common blends
- Hemp-cotton, hemp-recycled polyester, hemp-viscose
- Watch for
- Wrinkles, initial stiffness, shrinkage if untreated
How is hemp fabric made?
Turning a tough stalk into soft yarn takes several mechanical steps. The quality of retting and combing decides how fine and soft the final fabric can be.
There are two main fibre routes. Long-line hemp is spun much like linen and makes strong, textured woven cloth. Cottonised hemp is cut to cotton length, softened and blended with cotton so it can run on regular spinning machines; it makes softer jersey and fleece. A third, chemical route dissolves hemp into pulp and spins it into a regenerated fibre often sold as hemp viscose; it is soft and drapey but no longer behaves like natural hemp.
Properties of hemp fabric
Strength and durability
Hemp fibres are long and strong, so hemp canvas and twill stand up to heavy use in bags, aprons and workwear. Garments tend to wear slowly and soften instead of thinning out.
Comfort
Like linen, hemp absorbs moisture and lets air through, so it feels cool in hot, humid weather. It also has a slightly textured, matte look that many people like for casual clothing.
Wrinkles and stiffness
The low elasticity that makes hemp strong also makes it wrinkle. Washing and enzyme finishing reduce stiffness, and blending with cotton or elastane adds softness and recovery.
Hemp vs linen vs cotton
Compared with cotton, hemp is stronger and more textured but less soft at first and less widely available. Compared with linen, hemp is a little coarser and more matte, usually a bit cheaper, and just as breathable. If you like the cool, relaxed look of linen-type fabrics, you may also like cotton-linen blends; see our guide to cotton linen blend fabric.
Strengths
- Very strong and long lasting
- Breathable and absorbent, good for warm climates
- Softens and improves with washing
- Crop generally needs less water and pesticide than cotton
Drawbacks
- Wrinkles easily
- Can feel stiff or scratchy when new
- Higher price and limited choice
- Can shrink if not pre-washed
Common hemp fabrics and blends
- 100 percent hemp canvas and twill: bags, aprons, workwear and upholstery.
- Hemp-cotton (often around 55/45): the most common apparel blend, soft enough for T-shirts and shirts.
- Hemp-organic cotton jersey and fleece: casual tops and hoodies.
- Hemp-silk and hemp-viscose: drapey fabrics for dresses and blouses.
- Hemp-recycled polyester: outdoor and performance wear where quick drying matters.
How to tell hemp from linen
Hemp and linen look very alike, and even experts use a microscope or simple lab tests to be sure. One classic check is the drying twist test: a single wet fibre twists as it dries, and flax tends to rotate one way while hemp rotates the other. Day to day, hemp usually looks more matte and slightly coarser, while linen has a subtle sheen and smoother handle. Labels and certifications are the most reliable guide.
Dyeing hemp fabric
Hemp is a cellulose fibre, so it dyes with fibre-reactive dyes like cotton and linen. Its natural colour ranges from cream to light tan, and the lignin in bast fibre means very bright, clean whites and pastels are harder to achieve. Many hemp garments are left natural or dyed in earthy shades for that reason. Pre-wash new hemp to remove finishes before dyeing.
Is hemp fabric sustainable?
Hemp has a good reputation for a reason: it grows quickly, shades out weeds and is commonly grown with little or no pesticide, and it often needs less irrigation than cotton. The whole plant is useful, from fibre to the woody hurd used in building materials. Still, the final footprint depends on processing. Water retting can pollute rivers if waste water is not treated, chemical softening and dyeing use energy and chemicals, and hemp viscose has the same chemical issues as other viscose fibres. For the most reliable choice, look for organic or third-party certified hemp and mechanically processed fibre.
How to wash and care for hemp
- Wash cool to warm (30 to 40 C) on a normal cycle; hemp handles regular washing well.
- Line dry where possible; tumble drying hot increases shrinkage and creasing.
- Iron while slightly damp on a medium to hot setting, or embrace the relaxed creases.
- Avoid chlorine bleach, which weakens plant fibres; use oxygen bleach on whites.
- Store dry and clean; like all plant fibres, hemp can mildew if packed away damp.
Compare hemp with other natural and synthetic fibres in our fabric types and specifications guide.
