100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric dyeing and finishing process with a complete practical experiment

Cotton crepe single jersey is the newest development in the world. Here we discuss the 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting process, dyeing process with reactive dye, finishing process, and flow chart of knitting, dyeing, and finishing process with complete practical documentation which I did recently. Now I am sharing my recent development

Practical Documentation of a 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting dyeing (color) process:

Here I am sharing one of the knitting dyeing processes with all documents which I did at the factory level. If you use this parameter at the factory level, you will get the same result. Let’s enjoy…..

Target parameter:

Fabric type Heavy Single Jercy
Composition100% organic cotton
Color Name /PantoneA buyer swatch
Shade %1%
Repaired  Diameter200 CM (Open)
Required GSM280
Special NoteSpecial fabric need special care to avoid crease mark, long mark

Overall 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting dyeing and finishing process flow chart

To get the target fabric we set a target route for the overall process which I have given below

100% cotton fabric knitting process

Imported yarn parameter:

Yarn count and Type24 S/1  combed cotton
Yarn Composition100% cotton
Yarn CompositionReported company
Yarn BrandReported company

Knitting setting Parameter:

The setting parameter of knitting to get our target fabric are in below table.

Machine Dia and Gauge36cm & 10G
Total Needle1258
Stitch length28.2
Machine BrandUnitex
Machine RPM14

The parameter after Knitting of 100% cotton crepe jersey fabric:

After completing knitting we get the fabric parameter are states below table.

Grey fabric width cm (Open)
Gray GSM172

Dyeing of cotton crepe jersey fabric with reactive dye:

Here we have completed the knitting of this fabric.  Now we have the dye the fabric. We discussing below all the flow processes of dyeing which we did for this batch.

Dyeing process flow Chart:

Short description of cotton fabric dyeing process flow chart:

I am giving here a short description for a better understanding of the process.

Batching:

Knitted fabric is collected from the knitting gray store and created a batch here. Batch means the prepared fabric to dyeable format. Knitting is done roll to roll. Here fabric creates a rope according to the loading capacity of the dyeing machine. A batch card is also created for storing all the knitting and dyeing process parameters.

Loading to dyeing machine:

It is the 3rd step of the dyeing process. Lubricant is injected into the machine for avoiding friction between the machine and the fabric surface. Then load the fabric. Cycle time, Pump pressure, Reel speed, and Nozzle pressure setting is controlled here.

Scouring and Bleaching:

Normally scouring and bleaching are two different processes in oven fabric. But for knitting fabric, it is done in the same batch. For cotton fabric caustic soda, and hydrogen peroxide uses to scour and bleach here.

Bio Polishing:

This is the process to remove the hairiness of the fabric surface Bio polishing is done after the scouring and bleaching state. For special cases, it is also done after dyeing.

It is noted that excess dossing of enzymes can damage the fabric strength.

This is why no need bio polishing

Dyeing:

A reactive dyeing process is used here. This is one of the best sensitive fabrics (Heavy jersey).  So that it needs special care to get better results. This is why we use a perfect dyeing process. The result of this fabric dyeing process is good to use. I personally use this process in my factory for better results.

After-treatment:

In this stage, neutralization is done. Then the unfixed dyes are removed by a soaping agent. Better or high-temperature soaping will give you better fastness property. But here the dye shade% is low. So that no need for high soaping. Here core neutralizer is used to get better results. But we can also use only ascitic acid for naturalization.

Special note For crepe jersey fabric:  Lubricant must have to inject before loading the fabric. The cycle time range will be 2min-3min(Not below 2min).

Dyeing Recipe of 100% cotton crepe fabric:

Here I gave the chemical agent name.  Because I am not sharing the original brand name. The dosing depends on the dyes and chemical suppliers.

Chemical NameG/L
Detergent2.00  
Anti-creasing agent2.00
Sequestering agent1.00
Peroxide stabilizer2.00
Caustic Soda2.00
H2O21.00
  
Peroxide killer0.15
Acid (Neutralizing)0.7
  
  
Leveling agent2.00
Anti-creasing agent2.00
Sequestering agent0.5
Liyuansol yellow BLF0.074%
Liyuansol Red BLF0.014%
Liyuansol Blue BLF0.07%
  
Salt 
Soda Ash Lt 
Acid (Neutralizing) 
Soaping Agent0.80
          Anti-creasing agent1.00
Leveling agent2.00
  
Acitic acid(cotrao ph 5)0.10
Softener1.00

Dyeing process crepe cotton fabric step by step:

Color Name        :

Batch quantity: 25kg

Dyeing Type: Reactive dyeing

M:L                       : 1: 7

Enzyme Type: Acid Enzyme

Cycle Time: 2.5 min

Special Note: Care full about the process. Careful about crease marks,     long marks, uneven, etc.

Scouring & Bleaching

Detergent + Anti-creasing agent = Inject

Temp 40c*= Fabric Load

Caustic soda Dosing

Temperature 60c*20 Minute

Temperature 70c

Sequestering agent + H2O2 Dosing 5 Minute

Temp to  98’C & run 40 Minute

Cooling at 78’C

Sample check

If the sample ok then Drain

Normal Hot 70*10

Peroxide killer  60*10 Minute

Drain

Naturalization with acid

Drain

Wash 10 min

Dyeing

Leveling PH check 6.20

Leveling Dosing 60c 3 Minute

Color Dosing 30 Mints

Runtime 20 mint

Salt Dosing 10 Minute

Runtime 10 Minute

Salt Sample check + Fabric Quality Check

1st 1% Soda dosing 15 minute

Runtime 15 minute

2nd 99% % Soda dosing 20  minute

Runtime 20 minute

Sample check If ok then

Bath Drop

After Treatment

Soaping

Hot wash

Neutralizer

Dran wash

Soaping

Wash clear

Ph control 5

Softener

Unload

Finishing Process of 100% cotton fabric:

Now we completed the dyeing of this fabric. Now we discuss the finishing process and parameters step by step below:

Finishing flow chart:

finishing flow chart

Short Description of the flow process stages for better understanding:

Slitting:

After knitting the fabric we get a tube format fabric. But we have to use an open stenter and compacting machine to get better results. So that the fabric needs to open. This is why we use this machine to open this fabric.

Setting parameter And result:

Machine speed40
Padder Pressure1.5
Fabric In Diameter30 Cm (Tube)
Fabric Out Diameter150 Cm ( open)

Relax dryer:

To control the recovery we need the relax dryer instead of stenter machine. Stenter can damage the crepe effect. We have to pass the fabric as relux as possible. We dry the fabric and control the dia, GSM, and shrinkage.   For this, we need to appropriate setting. I am giving the setting which I did for this batch

Setting parameter:

Relax dryer parameter
SettingSpeed 18
Dia 190
Tem 110
Overfeed 59%
Padder Pressue3+2
After dryerDia 188
GSM 180
ShrinkageLength 
Width 
Spirality 

Compacting:

Full dia, gsm, and shrinkage is controlled here. Better appearance and looking is done here. Overall quality of dyeing is controlled here.

I am giving the parameter which I did for the subjective batch.

Compacting Parameter
Common SettingOverfeed35% 
Speed/RPM14
Temp110
Steam Pressure30
TopicTargetBeforesettingafter
Dia 200 188 190 189
Gsm 180 180 180
Shrinkage
 Tumble dryLength-9% 
Width+1% 
Spirality2% 

Now the fabric is sent to the testing lab for all the test reports.

Overall Comments on 100% cotton crepe jersey fabric development:

After analyzing all the test reports I can say that the GSM of the fabric is good. Normally we tolerate +/-  5, We do not get the accuracy. We need palla to wash to control shrinkage.

Conclusion:

Crepe single jersey is the newest and special type of dyeing fabric development. We need to be careful about its shrinkage and crepe effect. I think this fabric will get popular in the world.

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