Cotton crepe single jersey is the newest development in the world. Here we discuss the 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting process, dyeing process with reactive dye, finishing process, and flow chart of knitting, dyeing, and finishing process with complete practical documentation which I did recently. Now I am sharing my recent development
Practical Documentation of a 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting dyeing (color) process:
Here I am sharing one of the knitting dyeing processes with all documents which I did at the factory level. If you use this parameter at the factory level, you will get the same result. Let’s enjoy…..
|Fabric type||Heavy Single Jercy|
|Composition||100% organic cotton|
|Color Name /Pantone||A buyer swatch|
|Repaired Diameter||200 CM (Open)|
|Special Note||Special fabric need special care to avoid crease mark, long mark|
Overall 100% cotton crepe single jersey fabric knitting dyeing and finishing process flow chart
To get the target fabric we set a target route for the overall process which I have given below
100% cotton fabric knitting process
Imported yarn parameter:
|Yarn count and Type||24 S/1 combed cotton|
|Yarn Composition||100% cotton|
|Yarn Composition||Reported company|
|Yarn Brand||Reported company|
Knitting setting Parameter:
The setting parameter of knitting to get our target fabric are in below table.
|Machine Dia and Gauge||36cm & 10G|
The parameter after Knitting of 100% cotton crepe jersey fabric:
After completing knitting we get the fabric parameter are states below table.
|Grey fabric width||cm (Open)|
Dyeing of cotton crepe jersey fabric with reactive dye:
Here we have completed the knitting of this fabric. Now we have the dye the fabric. We discussing below all the flow processes of dyeing which we did for this batch.
Dyeing process flow Chart:
Short description of cotton fabric dyeing process flow chart:
I am giving here a short description for a better understanding of the process.
Knitted fabric is collected from the knitting gray store and created a batch here. Batch means the prepared fabric to dyeable format. Knitting is done roll to roll. Here fabric creates a rope according to the loading capacity of the dyeing machine. A batch card is also created for storing all the knitting and dyeing process parameters.
Loading to dyeing machine:
It is the 3rd step of the dyeing process. Lubricant is injected into the machine for avoiding friction between the machine and the fabric surface. Then load the fabric. Cycle time, Pump pressure, Reel speed, and Nozzle pressure setting is controlled here.
Scouring and Bleaching:
Normally scouring and bleaching are two different processes in oven fabric. But for knitting fabric, it is done in the same batch. For cotton fabric caustic soda, and hydrogen peroxide uses to scour and bleach here.
This is the process to remove the hairiness of the fabric surface Bio polishing is done after the scouring and bleaching state. For special cases, it is also done after dyeing.
It is noted that excess dossing of enzymes can damage the fabric strength.
This is why no need bio polishing
A reactive dyeing process is used here. This is one of the best sensitive fabrics (Heavy jersey). So that it needs special care to get better results. This is why we use a perfect dyeing process. The result of this fabric dyeing process is good to use. I personally use this process in my factory for better results.
In this stage, neutralization is done. Then the unfixed dyes are removed by a soaping agent. Better or high-temperature soaping will give you better fastness property. But here the dye shade% is low. So that no need for high soaping. Here core neutralizer is used to get better results. But we can also use only ascitic acid for naturalization.
Special note For crepe jersey fabric: Lubricant must have to inject before loading the fabric. The cycle time range will be 2min-3min(Not below 2min).
Dyeing Recipe of 100% cotton crepe fabric:
Here I gave the chemical agent name. Because I am not sharing the original brand name. The dosing depends on the dyes and chemical suppliers.
|Liyuansol yellow BLF||0.074%|
|Liyuansol Red BLF||0.014%|
|Liyuansol Blue BLF||0.07%|
|Soda Ash Lt|
|Acitic acid(cotrao ph 5)||0.10|
Dyeing process crepe cotton fabric step by step:
Color Name :
Batch quantity: 25kg
Dyeing Type: Reactive dyeing
M:L : 1: 7
Enzyme Type: Acid Enzyme
Cycle Time: 2.5 min
Special Note: Care full about the process. Careful about crease marks, long marks, uneven, etc.
Scouring & Bleaching
Detergent + Anti-creasing agent = Inject
Temp 40c*= Fabric Load
Caustic soda Dosing
Temperature 60c*20 Minute
Sequestering agent + H2O2 Dosing 5 Minute
Temp to 98’C & run 40 Minute
Cooling at 78’C
If the sample ok then Drain
Normal Hot 70*10
Peroxide killer 60*10 Minute
Naturalization with acid
Wash 10 min
Leveling PH check 6.20
Leveling Dosing 60c 3 Minute
Color Dosing 30 Mints
Runtime 20 mint
Salt Dosing 10 Minute
Runtime 10 Minute
Salt Sample check + Fabric Quality Check
1st 1% Soda dosing 15 minute
Runtime 15 minute
2nd 99% % Soda dosing 20 minute
Runtime 20 minute
Sample check If ok then
Ph control 5
Finishing Process of 100% cotton fabric:
Now we completed the dyeing of this fabric. Now we discuss the finishing process and parameters step by step below:
Finishing flow chart:
Short Description of the flow process stages for better understanding:
After knitting the fabric we get a tube format fabric. But we have to use an open stenter and compacting machine to get better results. So that the fabric needs to open. This is why we use this machine to open this fabric.
Setting parameter And result:
|Fabric In Diameter||30 Cm (Tube)|
|Fabric Out Diameter||150 Cm ( open)|
To control the recovery we need the relax dryer instead of stenter machine. Stenter can damage the crepe effect. We have to pass the fabric as relux as possible. We dry the fabric and control the dia, GSM, and shrinkage. For this, we need to appropriate setting. I am giving the setting which I did for this batch
|Relax dryer parameter|
Full dia, gsm, and shrinkage is controlled here. Better appearance and looking is done here. Overall quality of dyeing is controlled here.
I am giving the parameter which I did for the subjective batch.
Now the fabric is sent to the testing lab for all the test reports.
Overall Comments on 100% cotton crepe jersey fabric development:
After analyzing all the test reports I can say that the GSM of the fabric is good. Normally we tolerate +/- 5, We do not get the accuracy. We need palla to wash to control shrinkage.
Crepe single jersey is the newest and special type of dyeing fabric development. We need to be careful about its shrinkage and crepe effect. I think this fabric will get popular in the world.
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